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Need Advice On A Tcase Rebuild Issue

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by jmoreau, Jul 23, 2016.

  1. Jul 23, 2016
    jmoreau

    jmoreau New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2014
    Messages:
    10
    It would be the last step in a complete disassembly of my D18 that would give me problems.

    After fighting the removal of the flat snap ring on the main shaft, the cluster easily came out. I'm left with the hi/lo shift rod and fork still connected. Safety wire was not problem coming off.

    For the life of me, I cant remove the God forsaken square set bolt that retains the fork on the shift rod. Its happy wear it is.

    Soaked for 24 in pb blaster, heated with MAPP gas, vice grips, channel locks, a 1/2 open ended wrench...i tried everything. Part of the problem is fitting the tool parralel to the bottom of the case to apply torque to break her loose.

    Anyone have a hell of a time with this??
     
    jmoreau, Jul 23, 2016
    #1
  2. Jul 23, 2016
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2002
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    4,422
    Try heating the case around the bolt? Heat usually will get stuff like that. You could also try hitting the case a couple times to try breaking any rust loose. Do this when its hasn't been heated
    Use a good wrench...
     
    termin8ed, Jul 23, 2016
    #2
  3. Jul 23, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,665
    I was never able to remove the actual fork from the shift rod either - but at least with the large case version, it didn't cause any problems. The shift rod with fork could still be removed from the case once the front bearing cap and mainshaft were all removed. I even had to cut the shift rod down a bit to fit the Tera Low gears and just left the fork on on the shift rod.

    see post 64: Fino's 1970 mini build thread
     
    FinoCJ, Jul 23, 2016
    #3
  4. Jul 23, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    I heated mine until the thread locker smoked white and then removed the set screw.
     
    47v6, Jul 23, 2016
    #4
  5. Jul 23, 2016
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
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    Once the output shaft and gears are out then you can rotate the range fork and shift rail to better access the set bolt. I use a 3/8" drive extension, square drive socket of appropriate size, and a ratchet or in some cases breaker bar to loosen them. Has worked every time except for one for me.

    EDIT: Ooops! I had them reversed. Once the rear output shaft and gears are out you can do this to the range fork can be twisted and accessed the way I posted above. Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2016
    nickmil, Jul 23, 2016
    #5
  6. Jul 23, 2016
    jmoreau

    jmoreau New Member

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    Sep 13, 2014
    Messages:
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    A 3/8 extension and crescent wrench on the male end did the trick. Thanks guys.
     
    jmoreau, Jul 23, 2016
    #6
  7. Jul 23, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I have the square drive socket too. Maybe thats the difference?
     
    47v6, Jul 23, 2016
    #7
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