Dauntless V6 Swap

Have a 64 CJ5 with the F134/T90. What parts/ fabrication would be needed in order to swap a Dauntless V6 in?

Thoughts:
Transmission
Radiator
Engine Mounting

Have been thinking the easiest way would be to just find a running donor this way I would have everything. Is a 70-71 significantly better than a 66-69 due to the availability of the T-14 transmission?, any other drastic differences between the two year ranges.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

The biggest bonus of a late 70-71 is the offset flanged rear axle. The t14 is world's better then a t86. The 71 came with a goofy one piece bellhousing but if you are swapping the whole setup in it doesn't matter . Good running donors are getting pretty hard to find.

 

IMHO If you want a standard Jeep CJ go with a 1968-1975.
If you want "THE BEST" then you will have to mix and match various Jeep models and vintages till you achieve exactly what you like.

To fully understand what THE BEST is; one really needs to understand jeep progression from 1941 military inception to the end of CJ era (1985).

To fully understand viable component interchanges one should be familiar with the various assemblies relative to the time proven standards.
The time proven standard itself is the 1959 CJ.
Generally speaking: The further you move away from 1959 the harder it becomes to interchange assemblies with other Jeep models and vintages.
In other words the 1959 CJ's will directly interchange with more early and later year jeeps than any other single vintage year.
Some 1942 parts can be a direct replacement and some 1975 parts can also become direct replacement parts.
Nothing other than nuts and bolts remains identical to a 1959 CJ after 1975 changeover to full AMC components.

 

JMO - think about breaking the emotional attachment to your existing CJ, selling it, and buying a different CJ with the equipment that you want. If you are willing to search for the right Jeep across the whole country, I predict it will cost less, take less time, and involve less risk than converting your existing CJ-5.

Ken (oldtime) suggests model years 1968-1975. Realize that all the CJ Jeeps from 1972 onwards are fully highway capable, with bigger brakes, better steering, and more powerful engines. The 1968-71 CJs with a V6 are a big improvement over the F134 Jeeps, but they still have the non-durable and imprecise Ross steering, and smaller (and replacement-parts-challenged) brakes. If you want a '68-71, I'd suggest you look around and find the best one you can afford, with all the popular upgrades (steering, brakes) already completed. This will be the faster, less expensive and less risky route to getting close to the Jeep that you want.

If I wanted a CJ-5, I would look for a '72-75 with a 258, 4-speed and 4.27 gears. Again, JMO.

 

If you have a Tuxedo Park, as your signature implies, my recommendation is to not modify it as this was kind of a special model, and it would be a shame to "lose" another one by modifying it from stock. I'm guilty of modifying mine back in the mid-70's, and am trying to return it to stock configuration.
As mentioned previously, it would likely be cheaper, faster, and easier to find a V6 powered CJ5 than modify yours.
-Donny

 

i would love to have that combo in any of those years so long as it is as good as my current setup with the 71

 

Thank you for the advice, did not realize what would be involved in swapping in the V6. Not looking to part with this one as I am pretty far along on the project......
Just looking to get a little more drivability out of it. I am currently running earlier axles with 5.38s and 9" Brakes, However I do have the original Tuxedo Park axles with 4.27s and 10" brakes, I am thinking that swap may make a significant improvement in drivability.

Day one

Now

 

5.38 final drive ratio (FDR) with Warn 25% O.D. is better than 4.27 FDR without an O.D.
In fact 5.38 FDR plus 25% O.D. is the optimum for CJ's with a 134 engine.
Strong running Hurricane already begins to suffer if you increase FDR to 4.88 plus O.D.

 

So you would not recommend swapping in the 4.27 axles? Even if I do not have an O.D

 

My strong running standard 3B did better with 5.38 / O.D. vs. 4.88 / O.D.

WWII military Jeeps were all 4.88 FDR.
All CJ prior to 11/1962 were equipped with 5.38 FDR.
4.27 FDR became the new standard FDR in November of 1962.

Warn O.D. did not become a certified Jeep option until September of 1964.
In 1964 Jeep specifically stated that the Warn O.D. was only to be used with 5.38 or 4.88 FDR.

My info is taken directly from personal experience plus the original Service Bulletins concerning the standard ratio change and Warn O.D. as an Authorized Jeep Option.

 

Warlock, what swinging pedal assembly do you prefer?
Craig

 

I have a 64 Tux and I bought a 66 V6 donor, I put the 3:73 axels with 10" breaks in mine with7.50 X 15 tires on it and it drives great. I can cruise at 55, on the highway, it will go faster, but why? I used the 66 frame, because it was in better shape, and had to put the 4 cylinder battery box on it, the motor mounts, and move the cross member forward. The holes were already in the frame for it. The drive shafts for the V6 are different, front longer the rear shorter, because the trans and transfer are moved back in the V6, there is a lot of work to make a four into a Dauntless V6. Good luck what ever you decide.

 

I grabbed a 71 donor with all the goodies and it has a cable for the clutch, not the same linkage like on my 55 it went into.....I even used the 71 crossmember and there's a bracket I had to weld to my frame outside for the cable to set in...overall not a lot of extra work and seems to be a slick set up

71 also had dual master cylinder and larger brakes, so win win...actually swapped both axles and suspension

I did have to cut off my 55s battery box as well

Probably just throw on the 71s grill and radiator when I get that far

 

Getting a donor cj5 and swapping over isn't that big of a deal, swap in a t-18 4 speed from a ford truck as well. v6 is a vast improvement. 4:27's are nice with a v6, unless you want to add an overdrive expence, I would go ideal setup 5:38's, OD, T-18 4 speed, stock spicer18, disc brakes up front or at least 11" drums all the way around. I don't have a problem with the stock pedals in the floor, it's one of the things that give it the vintage feel. Good luck.