Suspension Doesn't Move

Hey great we have a picture.............although shackle angle cannot be determined until all of the normal weight is in the vehicle........both front & rear.

 

Even though there's alot missing with the engine mounted I would think those front shackles would look better. At a minimum I think you are way over shocked. Can't see the back but any chance you have the front & rear springs reversed?

 

Thanks for your help Tim and Focker with the picture posting,i'm not a computer guy.

 

Those springs look just like the old ones ultra stiff 5 leaf ones that came on my JEEP. First thing I would so is order a new lift then see where the shackles end up, proceed to attack the shackle issue at that point. Those springs are gonna blow no matter what so, might as well start there. Unless you're building a mud bogger.

 

I think you're right Dave and like i said they were installed in 1985 and the jeep has never been put back together since then.Rich to answer your question about the springs being reversed,i had a company do the lift and dual spring setup back in 85. I did take a measurement spring brackets center to center and that is 39" and the measurement on the springs center to center looks like 42" that's my best measurement seeing that everything is installed . The shackles are 5 1/2 center to center. Now as for the pics that you see the rolling chassis does have the fiberglass tub sitting on it right now and i do have boxes of parts sitting in the tub right now so there is some weight there. I Just went out and disconnected 4 of the extra shocks jumped on it again and i almost knock my partial out of my mouth lol, still doesn't move .

 

Back in 84,85 when the tires last seen the road i had a steel body on it and these are the tires i was running the only thing that was different is the lift and shackles and it had single shocks .The PO welded, i don't remember if it was 2 or 3 inch square tubing to the frame for the lift. She rolled down the highway pretty good with no probs.The only problem is when i turned the tire would rub on the spring. Probably should have left the damn square tubing on it.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about shackle angle at this point. Once the thing is completely assembled, then see how it looks and drives. You may like the ride. I would try removing one of the shocks on each corner for road testing. Those stiff springs won't cycle too much. Project is looking good. We all like to see pictures.

 

The dual shocks are a trendy Baja-racer inspired thing. I would get rid of them and the extra mounts, which look none too sturdy. I'd also measure the collapsed length of those shocks and make sure the axle hits the frame bumper before the shocks collapse completely.

 

Yes i think you're right Tim, the extra mounts have to go.

 

Any suggestions on which brand or company that makes the better lift springs ? And do i call them and tell them what lift i want,and is there anything else i should ask them like shackle size?

 

I have the 2.5" BDS springs on my CJ-6, and I think they are really good. I bought mine from Bob Supplee, but he is not in the business any more. There's only maybe 3 companies that make lift springs for these years of CJ-5 anymore; BDS, Skyjacker, and Rancho. You can get replacement springs from Omix-Ada (not recommended), Crown maybe, Dayton on RockAuto, and General Spring in Kansas City. The Generals may be Daytons (or vice-versa) ... the descriptions are pretty close. Walcks has their own replacement springs of unknown origin (USA somewhere).

If you want to have custom springs made, Deaver or Alcan are the names I hear most often. Good but pricey.

Conversion to Wrangler springs (YJ) is very popular, and gives you a lot more options. These are wider though, and you'll have to weld new mounts on the frame. We have a technical article somewhere... The wider springs give you a better ride, and are more flexible for more or less the same amount of body roll. There are also Holbrook long-leafs, which are a whole other thing. A search will tell you more than I can.

 

IIRC the rear tire opening is about 34" in diameter. My opinion - if you want to run bigger than 34" tars, run tube fenders and cut the rear fender wells. Not wanting to seem like a curmudgeon ... but putting your Jeep way up in the air to clear tires is both goofy looking and not safe. Low COG is good ... it's a performance issue.

 

Well this is how the jeep will be driven mostly road maybe a little dune riding with grand kids but mostly road and not driven day. I want to stay with the 3-4 " lift and 35 tires .I checked out BDS but looks like they only offer 2 1/2

 

Here's my CJ-6 on 33s. This is not high enough / big enough?

 

So, 2.5 BDS kit, 1" longer than stock shackles will net you 1/2" of lift. That's 3". Use a poly body mount kit and that'll get you another probably 3/4 inch over the stock rubber body mounts. That should get you pretty close to 4".

 

Your jeep looks just right Tim but when i ran my jeep back in 83/84 it had the 2 or 3 inch square tubing for a lift and these are the tires i was running and i never had a problem except for the front tires hitting the axles when i turned. These tires are 35s but actual size is 34".I Would rather just buy new springs and use these tires instead of buying new springs and new 33s

 

I meant hitting the springs