1968 Cj5 225 Front Cover Replace Without Removing The Oil Pan

I have just installed a timing chain and I am installing the front chain cover Has anybody just put a sealer where the cover seam meets the pan just run a bead. We did that with a lot of late-model engines. I worse case is I will have to put a pan gsk. on it.

 

When I did my timing chain, I pulled the pan so I didn't have the break in the gaskets at the front cover. If it was in a vehicle where you couldn't drop the pan I wouldn't bother but there's nothing in the way to drop the pan on a Jeep. Tthree isn't much reason not too.

 

Thanks, Fireball I was hoping you would jump in. You know it might not be a bad idea to do it right. What do you know about Oil sending switch the one the sent me was a lot smaller about 3/8 pipe thread and the original was about 1/2 size pipe thread. I thought of just putting an oil gauge in it I already installed a voltmeter. What do you volt electric or tube fed? Thanks for answering my post it is always good to get advice from you. I think you know your Jeep stuff.

 

Typically these gasket/seal sets contain a gasket for the protruding front of the oil pan:
More Information for FEL-PRO TCS45930

Cut the pan gasket where it emerges and scrape it off. I'd use the new gasket with some gasket cement to anchor it to the pan, then a little RTV or whatever to seal it to the timing cover. A little extra goop in the corner seems a good idea.

 

It's not unusual for replacement sending units (temp and oil) to have smaller threads. It allows them to fit more vehicles so the manufacturers don't need to make/stock as many parts. You'll need to find a reducer bushing at the hardware/autoparts store.

A mechanical oil gauge with a tube seems to be preferred by many. Be aware the the copper tubes work harden over time and the plastic ones get brittle. It's likely to eventually leak. Happened on my '71 with the plastic tube:


I replaced it with a braided stainless line that should hold up better:

 

Aye, the first thing I do with anything that has a Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge, is take the nylon or copper compression line, throw it right in the garbage, and replace it with braided steel. Had too many of the nylon/copper lines fail over the years.

 

I decided to go with an Electric I hope I have room with the oil sender that Autometer supplies I bought it through prime so I can send it back. I installed a Tach and Voltmeter and I am getting fogging of the gauges since it has not made out of my shop I am going to see how they work. I have read that there is a problem with Autometer. I putting on the front timing chain cover today and I am going to try without putting on an oil pan Gsk. I did order an oil pan gasket to be on the safe side. What difference the new timing chain makes, it is tight, and the tensioner spring is stiffer.

 

Generally, with the electric sending units, if there isn't room, just get yourself a matching long brass pipe nipple, and coupler, and screw that into the pressure port, then the sender into that. I know some of em can be pretty beefy.

 

we use mechanical gauges in our self powered spray rigs on the farm. i don't like the copper lines because they will eventually vibrate and crack. we use black nylon air brake line instead of the the plastic tube that the kit come with, usually 1/8" or 1/4 line. then i get the next size line bigger and thread it over the pressure line using some grease to help the outer line slide over the inner one. Doing this keeps the vibrations from wearing a hole through any of the line.

 

So far, all went well, runs great, and no leaks yet. I have a hard time getting used to the Odd fire Idle since I spent my last 43 years fixing rough idling GM cars. It's normal for the tach to bounce at Idle 625 It's an Autometer tach because of the Odd fire. Great Oil pressure 40 PSI. I will see when hot what reads. So back to restoring the rest of the jeep, the fun part. Thank you guys for all of your help. I am an expert at diagnosing timing chains. When I get a chance, I will measure rotor travel. specs

 

For the oil gauge on mine I used the hard steel line and the longer flex line intended for a CJ3B. I had to adjust the bend in part of the steel line, but it made for a neat installation with the line clamped to the firewall and a rubber grommet where it passed through the firewall. My CJ5 has the F134 instead of the V6 so might need a different routing of the lines, but I think it is important to have a flex line between the hard line and engine to prevent the hardening as mentioned above.

 

Personal experience has shown that drivers (including me) tend not to monitor their oil pressure gauges, especially when driving. I made it a point to run both a gauge and the stock idiot light in my system so there is an eye catching change in case of a catastrophic failure.
It was a simple brass tee with the pressure hose on one side and the sending unit on the other.

 

To monitor the oil pressure, I used a live gauge to indicate how accurate the electric one will be. I had a 1968 SS El Camino with one of the plastic lines, I remember it leaking oil on my foot. In the late 70s, they did have good after-market line kits.

 

I have had oil in my lap from those plastic lines.

One of my Jeeps had the gauge plumbed in with copper tubing directly to the fitting on the engine. After a number of years worth of vibration that line had failed, which is why I think there should be a flex line from body to engine and steel line to the gauge because steel doesn't work harden the way copper will.