This Has Me Befuddled

I have a 65 CJ5 with the 134 motor… the Jeep was a pretty big mess when I got it so I’ve been working to get it started. I’ve torn out all of the wiring because it was a rats nest splices, butt connectors, wire nuts and bare wires and I didn’t trust what was there.

Until I’m ready to put in the new wiring harness I just wired up the starter, ignition system and alternator so I could try getting the engine started. I purchased a new key switch (4 post… bat, acc, ign, start) from the auto parts store and wired it in.

Now for what has me “befuddled…” When I went to start it, I turned the key the first notch to the “on” position the engine started cranking over. I quickly turned it off and checked my wiring that everything was going where it was supposed to be going, it all was. I tried it again with the same result, this time going all the way to the start position to see what would happen, and when I turned it to there it stopped cranking.

I have reviewed the service manual wiring diagrams and have even consulted the Google the great oracle. Everything I see leads me to believe I have it wired correctly. I then tried switching the “on” and the “start” wires to see if that changed anything… it didn’t.

I’m thinking the problem is either with the ignition switch itself being defective, or possibly a problem in the starter solenoid. My question is… has anyone else ever experienced anything like this that they could possibly share some thoughts or insight with me. I’ve never heard of a solenoid causing that issue, but I guess it could be possible if there was something that came loose or somehow got inside the circuitry (during its decades of sitting untouched in a pasture) completing the circuit. I think I’m leaning toward it being a problem with the starter switch itself. It was a cheap switch switch from Auto Zone and it may have just been assembled poorly.

Anyway… any insight would be appreciated, thanks

-Paul

 

I'm guessing it's the switch. Omix-Ada? That the solenoid is engaging suggests that isn't the problem. Take the switch out and test what happens in each position. Probably not an exact replacement but Cole Hersee makes good ignition switches.

https://www.google.com/search?q=col...0i10i512l9.12183j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

X3

 

It's most likely the switch. I have some New OEM ones with Jeep logo keys......... PM me , if you would like.

 

I replaced the key switch by a push button located besides, it is easier, no good to mix all. Ignition is on the key, red light, then I push and ok.

 

12 volt test light - tells all
now I am just guessing ford starter solenoid

 

To me, it sounds like the wire on the "on" terminal needs to be moved to the "start" terminal.

 

Welcome form Michigan, Take the switch out, hot wire the coil, and touch the solenoid with a hot wire and see if it cranks up. Good luck.

 

Did you read the whole thing?
I may be getting old and slow but I do know the difference between “on” and “start!”

 

I don’t know if it’s a Ford solenoid or not… I’m just assuming it’s whatever came originally with the Jeep. The starter looks like an original starter with the solenoid riding piggyback on top of it.

 

Do the jumper thing above and ditch the switch. Once running is confirmed test the switch with a meter and jumpers to see if it is messed up.

 

Take an ohm meter and make sure your wires are
Where they are supposed to be. I know the difference between start and run too, but when my 4.3 Chevy in my CJ wouldn’t run, I was sure it was something other than having run and start hooked up incorrectly. I was so sure ….

also I have had bad starter
Switches that don’t supply power in “run”.

 

Paul,

Didn't mean to ruffle your feathers.

I did indeed read the the "whole thing", and while I don't appreciate the tone of your response, I have a pretty thick skin and will overlook it this time.

The part about it cranking when the switch is in the "on" position indicates it may be mis-wired which is the first thing to check before spending money on new parts. I know you said you checked to see if everything was going where it should, but that doesn't mean you didn't miss something.

It could be a bad switch as others have suggested. Pretty simple to find out. Check to see if there is voltage on the start terminal with the switch in the "on" position. There should not be, but if there is the two posts may be connected internally by sloppy soldering or junk inside the switch. If there is no voltage on the Start terminal when the switch is in the "on" position the problem is not the switch, and it has to be incorrect wiring somewhere.

 

Oldpappy, I apologize for the tone of my response, it was not intended the way that it sounded. One of the downfalls of communicating in text form on forums, text messages etc. is we don't always come across how we mean to sound. After going back and reading it again I see how my words came across negatively, and again it was certainly not intended that way. please accept my apology, I will be more conscientious of the words I write going forward.
The knowledge base on forums like this is indispensable. There are people here that have knowledge and understanding that I likely never will so my apology extends to everyone on here who felt that I was rude and ungrateful.

-Paul

 

For those who are wondering, it is the switch that was the issue. I tested the continuity on each of the posts and the "start" post did have continuity with the battery post at the ignition ("on") position, and no continuity at the start position.

 

Gone are the days of buying a new part and assuming that it works. Don't get me started on the Omix gauges. So, it runs?

 

Buy your new switch from Walcks, and don't buy the "universal" switch. They have one that fits a CJ5 and I have bought a couple of them that work the way they are supposed to work. A lot of suppliers have switches they claim fit CJ2A - CJ5 but the opening in the dash is different for a CJ5 as compared to the earlier Jeeps, so one size does not fit all.

 

Probably going to find something like I found in the Omix-Ada turn signal unit. The ground wire was attached to the flasher output------ The ONLY reason it needed any ground was for the indicator bulb.