Axle Upgrades

I decided to keep my CJ7 to have something for more difficult trails that I don’t want to take Ted on. Snowshoe was supposed to be for harder trails, but it would be mad if I rolled it over. Anyways, I was thinking about what I want the cj7 to be and I would like to run 35s on it. The rear will be fine with a one piece axle shaft upgrade, it I was wondering what I should do to the Dana 30wt? Iirc, 33s are about the biggest for a Dana 30.

 

If you can drive with caution and care, I think you're fine with 35s on the D30 WT.
You can upgrade Dana 30 housings with chrome moly 30 spline (not 27 spline) axle shafts.
If you're going to install a full locker, then maybe a modified D44 would fit the bill.
Regardless, I would NOT go with a 3/4T or 1T axle as they are just too heavy for the CJ...in my opinion.
There are just so many variables here...curious what others will recommend.

 

Never like the front dana 33 for 35" tire, you have to be very carefull.

I good built d44 is the way to go.

 

Truss it, run rcv shafts, and ditch the lock-outs for flanges and you’ll be fine.

 

I found a scout Dana 44 that I’m going to get for that day it goes boom.

 

Been running a 30 in the front of my '5 for nearly 30 years. Had 33's for a short time in the middle years, but mostly 35's. It'll be fine.

short video of the kid driving (6) minnesotamudder on Gumbys rocks - YouTube

 

Scout axle in his stock form has only the ring and pignon that is a true upgrade.

Scout axle are using dana 30 outer axle, hub and free lock. You can upgrade those part to make it a true dana 44 (what i did)

 

If you plan on running 35’s you better truss the heck out of that AMC 20 and weld the tubes to the carrier. The rosette welds fail because there aren’t enough of them allowing the tubes to spin and the tubes are thin so they bend. We re-tubed a ton of them back in the day with dom heavy wall tube because they were constantly bending.

 

Thanks for all the replies. This is what I love about this forum.

 

A little late to the party, but,

Not a fan of lockers with the 30 and large tires. They tend to stress the U joints, especially with one tire off the ground.

Open carriers will break just about anything if (when) the front end begins to bounce under load.

IMHO, for "weaker" axles, a Good LS is the ticket. The Powr lok or Tru trac are good examples. They will help eliminate the shock load found with the open carrier and the added stresses of the locker by allowing some "slip". They are pretty seamless in operation and have much better manners in snow and ice than a locker.

 

X2 on locker and dana 30....
X3 on locker with external bolt free lock/flange

About the u-joint is the same problem with d30-44-60 u-joint....they are not meant to be ride hardcore, always had big problem.

Limited slip is the worse of the 2 work IMO....they are good for a very occasionnal wheeler only. Got friend who hated their LS after some use...

After 10 years running welded carriers i know have two electric locker....pricey but i will never put anything else than that in future.

 

Rcv shafts with warn premium free lock still holding up after 6 years of real and bad abuse

 

I disagree. The Trac (trash) loc aside, the LS is an improvement. The Powr lok is brutally strong and rebuildable. The tru trac is a Torsen style diff that is smooth, seamless, and "locks" up nicely.

 

You may have good experience, but all my friend that has try LS didnt like them on the long term....they all went to lunch box, detroit or selectable locker...

 

Agree to disagree

 

If I did anything, it would be selectables in both axles.

 

Just my thoughts, but IME, ring gear/pinion failures are way down the list for the demise of even D25's and D27's. It is usually the short side shaft or the spider gears that puke. I think a D30 with a selectable locker and Dutchman 4340 30 spine shafts would work fine for this. Yes, you still have the external hubs but I have always looked at those as something way easier to replace than a broken shaft or internals. Just make sure you get the proper fasteners for the hubs/drive flanges.

 

Personally I would just put something stronger under the front. I like to build stronger than I need, fixing stuff on the trail or limping out from the trail isn't fun. Having peace of mind that you PROBABLY won't break anything major... makes wheeling/traveling more enjoyable

I broke one of the the stock rear axle shafts on my 46 while driving on the street... or at least that's the point when it decided to fully let go. At that point, I decided no more stock axles for me.

I found a narrowed D44 for the front of my 46 around 10 years ago or so. Saved me the time/trouble of having to narrow it myself. maybe you could find something similar. I just had to weld on spring perches, and as a bonus it gave me front disc brakes for "free".

 

Small block 283, t90, dana 18, marine corp M38A1 with powr loc in rear d44 - sheared the bolts in the powr loc on the street (aired down Armstrong tru track tires - yes in 70’s doing stupid stuff) went to a 57 pontiac rear.
Skipping dunes at Devils Playground and pulled long tube out of front axle housing. Broke axle as well.

now - chrome moly front axles in d44, CTM u-joints, Strange axles in rear d60, both with detroit tru tracs

decided on the tru tracs after years with a detroit locker in my 68 jeepster commando’s 9” rear and a detroit locker in the d70 I put behind a NV4500, NP205, and Cummins transplant in my Jeep J20

getting old- don't want things breaking and want them better behaving.

Dennis

 

That's the way i built my front dana 44.

Internal lock
RCV axle
1 ton tie-rod-end
Ram Assit
ELectric locker (that one is a must, way less stress on component and you lock only when needed)

Never touch anything on my front axle, and since i got the LS engine i have 54 trails under the wheel with no issus (never had front issues since i got the rcv axle 6 years ago)