New Exhaust Issue Dauntless

I have a new exhaust system from Waldrons.
After getting it bolted up, the tie rod from the steering box to the bell crank is rubbing on it.
Before I get out the BFH and make the necessary adjustments...
Is it possible that the tie rod is in backwards?
Can it be put on backwards?
I also noticed that it just barely scuffs the frame horn for the motor mount.
When I replaced my steering box and went through the rest of the steering I know I put that rod in exactly as it came off, but that doesn't necessarily mean it was on the right way to begin with.

 

That is incorrect. This is what the factory V6 exhaust looks like (from the service manual):

 

I think you have your drag link on backwards. This is what both of my V6s look like:


The bends in the link are in the vertical plane, not the horizontal plane.

The end of the link with the larger overhang should be to the front:


The end with less overhang goes on the steering box:

 

I think that's it.
Thanks Fireball.
I will swap that around once my garage cools down a bit tonight and see how it works out.

 

I like the two pieces going into the Y pipe better than the 1 piece from Waldrons.
I had to put my old body into positions that it did not like in order to get the first manifold stud started

 

My Dauntless CJ5 had the same issue when I bought it. The previous owner had recently replaced the exhaust system and it had several leaks in addition to the drag link hitting the exhaust pipe. I removed the "Y" pipe and added clearance to the pipe with a BFH. When replacing the "Y" pipe I discovered that by lifting the tailpipe end of the "Y" pipe closer to the frame it increased the clearance between the drag link and the pipe. This did cause some interference between the tail pipe and the transmission/transfer case cross member. It took a bit of massaging to get the tailpipe connected but it took care of the clearance problem and exhaust leaks.

 

Didn't seem to be a whole lot of adjustment possible when bolting up the the manifolds.
I actually don't like how it lined up with the front dump manifold. Will probably try some tightening and loosening and see if it will line up better. I'm actually surprised there's no gasket at the manifold side, that would make things a little more forgivable.
So if all else fails I have an ancient roll of asbestos cloth hidden away that I can do a little wrap with.
That steering rod is definitely in backwards though.

 

OK now I'm confusing myself.
In this picture the left side goes to the front and the spring is on the rod side?

 

It is possible to reverse a drag link - and it could be dangerous.

The sequence and position of the various springs, cup/discs, and screw plugs, with the ball ends, in the "keyhole"slots is highly specific to each end, and designed to preclude an accidental disconnect.

Get out your FSM and study it carefully!

 

That's where I'm getting confused, the way Fireball said appears to be right but when I put it in that way the cups and springs won't go the way the FSM says they should.

 

It is tricky, and can be done wrong. Take your time!

 

It's possible mine are backwards but I was careful to put them on the way they were before.

 

Here is what the service manual says:




That is backwards from both of my Jeeps. But both of my Jeeps were the other way when I got them and steer fine while clearing the exhuast and the motor mount.

I'm not sure what to do here. I would see if one way clears things better than the other and go with that.

 

That's the plan, I don't see that it matters which way it's on the springs are going to do their job regardless.

 

The springs should not be "mission critical." The proper assembly orientation and sequence renders the ball ends safely captive, independent of the spring action.

 

I get that, Fireball may or may not be running his backwards with no ill effects.
Could be the FSM is wrong ( wouldn't be the first time).
I will assemble it with the cups and springs where they should be.
It's Just that the drag link seems to fit better when opposite of what the FSM says.

I have run into this issue before with a Triumph Bonneville, the FSM has the wiring diagram backwards at the points, in over 60+ years that has never been corrected, lots of beautiful motorcycles have been scrapped because of that.
I don't know what's correct, I'll go with what works.

 

Having owned a number of British bikes, I can confirm that they do a lot of things backwards.

 

I've found that when dealing with British bikes thebbest thing to do is just rip out all the original wiring and start from scratch.
Saves a lot of headaches.