What Spare Parts/tools Do You Carry?

Thx for this! Interesting point in that thread about the heater hoses being a common fail point! Anything else y'all can think of that are common points of failure?

 

The loose razor blades were because I was picturing myself scraping old gasket material off haha. but Im not sure thats a common thing to need to do out in the field. I have a Halon Fire extinguisher that I forgot to list initially as well
Great point about my old resistor and coil too!

I'll be trailering it out there most likely.
Whats do you mean when you mention the water being used for the battery?!??!? sounds cool.

Assorted bolts and nuts are a great idea!

Same! With the exception of my only breaker bar and torque wrench. which i use to work on multiple vehicles

Sounds like someone has done this in the mud before LOL.

Definitely gonna add Stop Leak! Curious about the sandpaper though! Can you explain?

 

Thx for the insight on Gorman! Sounds awesome!

I assume its an "open to the public" thing. The host gave me a flyer at a cars and coffee event this weekend. The only Caveat is that he's being really careful with who he's inviting based on how original and authentic-ish the vehicles are. I think the requirements are Pre-1979, no outwardly modern upgrades like LED light bars, Halos, modern wheels, etc. I think its an attempt to create a real throw-back style of 4x4 meet up.
I like that because most of these events are overwhelmed by mall crawlers and "angry eye" jeeps haha. I overheard the guy talking about a fully restored INTL Scout that was not gonna be considered because it had too many modern upgrades.
Anyway, I'm happy to forward the flyer to anyone on here who seems interested!

 

That’s a great idea.

 

Yeah, I have had to crawl under more than one vehicle in the mud.

Mention of stop leak reminds me of when a tree branch punched a hole in the radiator of my truck on a camping trip in 1979. We didn't have any "stop leak" but an old guy along for the trip walked over with a can of black pepper out of his cook box and told me to pour it into the radiator. It stopped the leak alright, and I was able to drive the truck all week and haul a camper home with it, but it did run a little hot and required having the radiator core rodded out when they fixed the hole.

 

Fine sandpaper is for polishing the ignition points. Distilled water is for topping-off the cells in the battery. Gawd I feel old having to explain these things.

 

Here's a good video

 

HA! Thats awesome! I can't say I've ever owned a car battery that needed filling (that I was aware of) besides a motorcycle battery that was filled at the dealership when I bought it. That said... It there a symptom you usually look for that would signal low water? Like not charging etc?
I had no idea it was a "thing" I'd ever have to even think about.

 

I carry pretty much what is listed here, and from time to time I stop at the pawn shop and get additional/better versions of tools to keep in vehicles. I have a lot of vehicles...

Might have been said, any home made tool I create for a vehicle goes with that vehicle. Example: I turned a socket extension into a giant standard screwdriver to turn the caps on the drag link.

I carry a screw lid plastic jar with clean grease.

 

"It there a symptom you usually look for that would signal low water?"

Dead battery is a symptom. Now I feel as old as Pete.

A lot of modern batteries are "Maintenance Free" and don't have caps for adding water, but batteries with the caps allow water to be added, because if the water gets low the cell will be dead. Use distilled water for this.

 

Didn't intend to make you guys feel old! I'm learning more every day thx to this forum.

 

I'd like to see the flyer, por favor.
Remember, we're forecasted an El nino, so March could be wet!

 

PM sent! and noted about the wet weather. I just put the top and doors back on recently and they'll probably stay there till spring anyway.

 

By the time you notice any symptom, the damage to the battery will be permanent.

Checking and maintaining acid levels in batteries used to be routine, like tire pressure and radiator coolant.

But this last summer I watched my mechanic trying to explain to a customer how to read a dipstick, and why.

 

Question about the nuts and bolts... Looking to grab an assorted kit online.

I don't know much about grades etc. Considering I'll probably be dipping into this kit as I move forward with the restoration as well, Does Grade 8 or Grade 5 sound appropriate for an emergency kit? I know the grade 8 are yellowish but sound stronger.

What grade bolts were primarily used on our jeeps for applications that could rattle loose on the trail?

Any advice is appreciated and pardon my ignorance on the matter.

Here are some assorted kits I'm considering:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M10U6PG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3L21WFXSV6ZNP&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Grade-Bolts-Screws-Washers-Assortment/dp/B01LXRLLDQ/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3BF30WYLN12YH&keywords=grade+5+nut+bolt+kit&qid=1699473270&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=industrial&sprefix=grade+5+nut+bolt+kit,industrial,111&sr=1-6&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840

https://www.amazon.com/Assortment-Stainless-4-20-16-18-8-16/dp/B0BG2RG3VX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3ETT4ZIU6PNY4&keywords=stainless+nut+bolt+kit&qid=1699473312&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=industrial&sprefix=stainless+nut+bolt+kit,industrial,111&sr=1-3&th=1

 

Here's my thought. Factory grade or higher in your build. Grade 8 for the trail.
You definitely need 3/8 and 5/16" fine and coarse thread in the kit 3/4" and 1 1/2" long.
That covers most frame and mounts, Crossmembers, clutch, bellhousing.

A handful of 1/4-20 3/4" long and a few smaller coarse and fine 1/2" long.
Three spring eye bolts,
one front passenger inner and two rear axle u-bolts. ( just to Get home the slightly larger bolts work up front)
Motor mount fasteners.
One or two for the steering box.

 

Heck yeah! That's the kind of specific info I was hoping for! Also, does factory grade mean stronger than grade 8?

 

No the factory would use the bare minimum to save a cent. Really quick heat treatment to say it's a bolt. There are some grade 8 bolts (6 bars on the cap) I've seen these on the backing plates if I remember.

Grade 2 is non-structural and used as a fuse in heavy equipment, you don't want that anywhere on a jeep. Grade 5 is your "good enough". Grade 8 is the "I value my life" quality.

Button head bolts and true machine grade hardware goes into a different grading system. That is partly why using button head bolts is the upgrade on the knuckles.

I'm sure there are some good rabbit holes on YouTube for bolts and such but if you have a grade 8 bolt on the trail you are good.

Add one or two u-bolts for the driveshaft yokes (the nuts are what generally escape me)

 

On my rig I used grade 8 bolts for the roll bar. The body will tear before the bolt, I have a sandwich plate for the inside of the wheel well and on the outside of the tub I have some armor that acts as the sandwich plate so the upper bolts are grade 8. However the lower bolts on the corner guards just keep the old body from rattling and such, a grade 8 bolt is unnecessary so I saved several bucks by using a lower grade. I'm not packing extra of the lesser grade. If I lose one it will get a grade 8 and I'll get another grade 8 for the bag.

I do have some low grade bolts on the hard-top, it uses 10+ 1/4-20 bolts on each side to hold the roof, these were originally cheap enough to break the heads off with a hammer and chisel. I replaced them with stainless bolts and cap nuts.
I did have a few box store stainless bolts snap and ended up buying a few pounds of restaurant quality hardware (think sneezeguard to countet in front of a sandwich artist)