1963 Dodge Dart !!! Wahoo!

Well, I'm going to play with getting the moisture out, but all I know is just to change to oil a few times

 

Exactly this.
Another option is leaking between the water pump and timing cover. Or condensation from running without being properly vented in its l last life.
But I like fireballs option best.

 

Just a thought - is the oil definitely milky from water content, or is it possibly just aerated - perhaps from overfilling or other causes?

Whatever - I wouldn't give up on it until you give it a chance to settle in. Especially with those compression results.

How's the oil pressure?

 

Hey Pete, the oil pressure is really good, 50, but lower after getting hotter, 20- 30. I don’t know if I had mentioned, but it has a leak coming from the rear main, or oil pan. When I get the valve covers on. I’ll be able to rev it and see what that does. Then, I think I should put on the engine stand , pull the timing cover, pan , check the bearings, pull the crank shaft out, replace the rear main seal? Sounds like a lot of work but I’m set up pretty good to accomplish the work, however if the bearings are toast?

 

If you have good oil pressure, it's not likely the bearings are toast.

 

I just drained the oil, it’s dark, but not milky looking. I do know there is a leak at the rear main seal area but unsure if it’s the pan or rear seal. To replace the rear main seal, I have to pull the crank shaft as it’s a two piece seal.
Anyway going to let the oil sit and see if there is any separation.
It’s cold so not much going on here

 

You can usually pull the rear main cap, loosen the others, and then slide the old seal out and the new one in. There is a tool called a sneaky Pete just for doing this. You shouldn't even need to undo the rod bolts.

 

Thank you, I did not know that!!

Just looked it up
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-27000-Sneaky-Pete-Tool/dp/B0002SRCJW

 

Usually is the key word.

 

I resent that remark.

 

Good evening (talking like dracula)

This is a sample of the most recent oil from my engine. No particular observations other than got dirty quick; maybe the moisture evaporated?


Moving the other 318 engine to the other engine stand which doesn't have the crank. This stand is cool and easy to rotate the engine vs the other kind


All I can say about this other engine is Yuck!


I used my "little mule", basically an old Hoyer lift, good for 450lbs. REally comes in handy!!
https://www.classiccarsandtools.com/2012/09/07/mini-shop-crane/

Ok, back to True Detectives

 

Well, I changed the oil/filter with some cheap oil and about a quart of marvel mystery oil. The oil being pump up looks very clean now. I went to two different autoparts and no one has valve cover gaskets I have some coming wednesday; just want to rev the heck out of to see how it handles that.

If that goes ok, then I'll put it on the engine stand to flip it, remove the pan, replace the rear main seal. I'm this far into it, thinking about removing the timing cover and inspect the chain/gears.

Since I'd be having it that far apart, is there a cam that might be a decent street cam, kind of help out a stock engine(if it is stock) ?

Taking a lunch break

 

At least now the leaks will smell nice.

 

Which one? Season 1 was amazing

 

oooo, a fellow binger Let's see, season 1, 2, 3 and finished 4. We've been kind of flip-flopping with FARGO. I would not say anything regarding shows as it may ruin the viewing. They're interesting

 

Like TD 1,2was ok3 was a hard no. 4 I will watch.

Each new season of fargo gets more un-fargolike

 

I installed the valve covers with gaskets, ran the engine up to 160 degrees (no thermostat), I wish I had recorded it. Revved up to about 4500rpm's, really cranking on it. If it's going to mess up, I'd rather it do it now, but not blow up on me of course! Sounds bad ***!

My only concern was the coolant, or whatever was in the radiator, is a slight foamy looking residuish browninsh stuff. Not oil, Tomorrow I'll flush the radiator/block and run it all over again.

now, look down below and help me make a decision on a cam please

I have a quote on two different cam kits, which one?

Watson, the guy at Summit Racing wrote:
"I have attached two options that I think would work great for what you're looking to do. The part number that ends in 210-2 is going to be more of a performance cam that will give you the torque your looking for but still work great with power brakes and AC. The second one is going to be more of a high performance cam with a lower RPM range but will provide great torque through low and mid RPMs. Please let me know if you would like for me to get one of these on order for you. You can also delete the camshaft you do not want and order directly through the link I have provided."

https://www.summitracing.com/cart/quote/2164224

 

Sounds to me the 1st cam he’s offering would be the way I would go just my opinion