Wheel Cylinder Rebuild

Just wanted to know if most of the guys do it this way rather than buy replacements. Haven't done this in about 30 years. Is there a reason why I shouldn't? Should I just hone it thru and change the inerds? Anything I should watch out for?

Thanks,
Rit

 

I too have not had good luck rebuilding wheel cylinders - my average is probably about .500. That was back when I was a student and really poor though... If you use a hone and the inside of the cylinder is in good shape ie no rust pits, your rebuild should hold. Cylinders aren't that expensive though, and unless you value your time very cheaply... or enjoy squeezing the last dollar out of your repair budget, rebuilding does not seem economical.

 

Oh yeah..........

New cylinders it is then.

Thanks,

 

I rebuilt my rears years ago still holding, back then it was hard to find new cylinders (thank god for the internet), the kits were free, my neighbor worked at Wagner, got 2 new front cylinders, 2 rear rebuild kits and a new MC for free, I was gonna have to wait 3 weeks for new rear cylinders (next production run) but they had the kits in stock.
Sometimes its just nice to do it the old fashioned way, especially when my son or daughter are around to ask questions.

 

I prefer rebuilding, unless they are frozen up.
you might see rust in the center, near the bleeder screw opening.
that doesn't affect where the seals ride though.
ymmv

 

I guess that's what it is. I don't have money problems, I just like doing everything the hard way just to see if I still can

Did you take the cylinders off or leave them on the hubs? What about the junk left by honing?

 

I leave them on.
take them apart
use new brake fluid to hone with
hone lightly, just enough as needed
keep the hone and cylinder wet with brake fluid
clean off/out with brake parts cleaner
might help to pinch the rubber hose/disconnect the brake line to keep the brake fluid from running out...
actually, let it run, time to flush the lines and put in new
reassemble using new brake fluid on (all over) the seals and pistons

 

I took them off but that was just me, I felt it was easier, just flush them with brake or carb cleaner when done.

 

That's great info, thanks for the replys.

Just got the kits yesterday from Walck's as well as a new master cylinder & shoes. The M.C. had so much silt laying in the bottom, I didn't want to take a chance. I soaked it in lacquer thinner for a few days but it still looked crapy.

For the rears I bought the puller with 3 legs. All of the diagrams I've seen show removing using 3 legs, has that worked OK for everybody? The rear is a 41.

 

A gallon of alcohol (isopropanol) is cheaper - either from the hardware store or woodworkers store. That's what's recommended for cleaning brake parts.

 

Three arm puller works well on my flanged 44. Amazing how hard those stinkers are to get off.