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painless wiring harnesses

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by fheadcj6, Nov 22, 2007.

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  1. fheadcj6

    fheadcj6 Member

    i got a reply from EZ wiring, they have recommended a loom and given me a freight quote.
    there price is very reasonable. it will be about $225 landed in Australia. which is good, everything i try to buy from the US the freight is horrendous, (like $55 USD freight for a fuel filler grommet) i will be defiantly buying the EZ harness. when i get to fitting i will post a thread on the progress. if there looms are as good as their service i will certainly be recommending them to anyone who asks.
    thanks everyone for you input:):hurrican:
     
    fheadcj6, Nov 27, 2007
    #21
  2. jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Great deal!
    I used EZ and was very happy with the product and customer service.
    On a different note....I sell a number of things on Ebay. If you can get companies to ship via USPS it is much more reasonable overseas than most other carriers.
     
    jzeber, Nov 27, 2007
    #22
  3. Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Running the wiring harness down the right hand side is easy. I ran mine down the right hand side because I mounted my fuse box on the right hand side just to the left of the glove box, it kept it away from the heater and all the cables. It made a lot of things easier due to the battery and alternator location. The harness is all run inside the tub under the door lip and thru a grommet in the rear of the wheel well and down to the tail lights.
     
    Mcruff, Nov 27, 2007
    #23
  4. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    New style of Passenger ejector seat?R)R)
    Nickmil
     
    nickmil, Nov 28, 2007
    #24
  5. Combat75

    Combat75 New Member

    I put a painless harness in my 57 chev p/u (in avatar). piece of cake. the best thing about the painless harness is the wires are not only color coded but labeled with to and from destinations. my mistake was i got the biggest one they make thinkin g it would be easier to add circuts after the install. In the 5 years since i put the harness in i have yet to add 1.
     
    Combat75, Dec 1, 2007
    #25
  6. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    So are the EZ Wire harnesses.
     
    sparky, Dec 1, 2007
    #26
  7. neptco19

    neptco19 That guy....

    The ez wire also seem to use heavier gauge wire, or they have a thicker insulation than the painless.
     
    neptco19, Dec 1, 2007
    #27
  8. Hazzo

    Hazzo New Member

    I am in the process of making my own harness from a modern fuse box kit from www.rebel-wire.com. The kit has enough wires, color coded throughout, etc... for 9-circuits plus 3-additional circuits for later needs = $150. Their 8-circuit kit is $133. I am using a sheet of peg board to layout the old harness on as a template for wire lengths, plugs, and such.
     
    Hazzo, Sep 17, 2009
    #28
  9. alex211

    alex211 Member

    If your still around do you know of any places to get the good butt splices and bullet connectors, preferably solder on connections? I plan on rewiring my CJ with an EZ Wire harness. thanks
     
    alex211, Sep 17, 2009
    #29
  10. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    I bought heat-shrink butt connectors at Autozone I think? That's what I used when I rewired the '71 with the EZ Wire
     
    sparky, Sep 17, 2009
    #30
  11. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    I'd nose around a bit before soldering every connection. Some folks say the solder makes the wire more likely to break in a high-vibration environment.

    I remember Dr. Vern from the WT list (and JP Mag) saying that he'd been wiring airplanes for years and everything was crimped.

    I rewired my 6 with all crimp connectors, each one then covered with heat-shrink - with the exception of the big connections on things like the starter etc.
     
    Boyink, Sep 17, 2009
    #31
  12. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    I think I just used crimp connections with heat-shrink connectors.
     
    sparky, Sep 17, 2009
    #32
  13. bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member 2022 Sponsor

    that's the route I took as well......quality connectors, quality crimper, heat shrink, no problems in about 2 years of DD duties
    Jim S.
     
    bkd, Sep 17, 2009
    #33
  14. alex211

    alex211 Member

    I solder where ever I can, but everyone has their methods.
     
    alex211, Sep 17, 2009
    #34
  15. dortoh

    dortoh New Member

    Solder connections are weaker and also are the first place corrosion will start. Comes from the flux or not getting all the flux off. Check any factory wiring harness aircraft or car the solder connections are kept to a minimum. Good noninsulated crimp connections and heat shrink are the only way to go.

    Retired F-15 Avionics and active Jeep addict.

    Lenard
     
    dortoh, Sep 17, 2009
    #35
  16. pilebuck

    pilebuck Member

    Ijust ordered a 12 circuit do u use all the same plugs from the old wiring or can u find new v6 225 1967 cj5 thanx george....
     
    pilebuck, Feb 16, 2010
    #36
  17. Yankeefist

    Yankeefist Sponsor

    I did automotive electrical work for 14 years. We soldered and heat shrunk? everything we could. I can not remember ever having trouble with a soldered joint but we were constantly having to repair the crimp joints.
    As far as the flux damaging the wire, this will only happen if you use an acid core solder which is a big no no in the electrical world.
    If you are not good at soldering, you can buy connectors that allready have solder in them and heat shrink around them. These are very easy because you only have to heat them with a little torch but they aren't cheap.
     
    Yankeefist, Feb 16, 2010
    #37
  18. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    [​IMG]

    Sparky should add this to the banned subjects list same as politics, religion & Who Put the Bop in the Bop-she-Bop-de-Bob.

    Soldered connections in a high vibration environment or corrosive environment will be fine as long as sealed with a good quality heat shrink that provides strain relief for the wire (vibration Will cause soldered joints, or more specifically the wires at the soldered joints, to fail) and keeps the moisture out of the joint. The downside to soldering these days is lead free solder- Do Not get me Started on That.

    Good quality crimped connectors (NOT the ones you buy at the local FLAPS) installed with a proper tool (NOT the ones you buy at the local FLAPS) have the advantage of not requiring the strain relief but in an automotive environment should still be used either with heat shrink or dielectric grease to keep moisture out of the connection.

    That Is All- we now return you to your regularly scheduled old post..

    H.
     
    Howard Eisenhauer, Feb 16, 2010
    #38
  19. alex211

    alex211 Member

    I don't mind crimp connections either, I really like the ones that have heat shrink integrated into them. Now does anyone have any links to a good crimping tool? The one I have is a piece of junk and I don't really trust it for anything. I plan on using a weatherpack kit when I rewire my jeep with an EZ-wire harness so I guess I'll have to get a specific crimper for those connectors anyways too.
     
    alex211, Feb 16, 2010
    #39
  20. uboatcmdr

    uboatcmdr Member

    This is the crimper I use on the job & on my vehicle connectors:
    http://www.lowes.com/pd_30080-12704...+Electrical+Hand+Tools_4294821045_4294937087_
    [​IMG]
     
    uboatcmdr, Feb 16, 2010
    #40
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