4" lift on a 5.

Is it safe to run a 4" lift on a cj5? I have been reading a lot here and other places that all steer me in the direction of a 2 1/2" lift. I would like to run 35's. But I am wondering about how well it will handle at 65MPH. The Jeep is not a DD but I do use it to go back and forth to work every once in a while. I also just like to run trails, no rocks or anything difficult.

 

There are guys here that run 6" lifts that swear they drive straight at 70mph. It all has to do with both your steering geometry and the axles. (caster, etc.) You will need to run more then 2.5" of lift if you want to do a lot of 4 wheeling and run 35". You will end up stuffing them in the wells. If you do it right and use a good 4" lift kit or a wide spring conversion from a later wrangler or YJ you will be happy. Adjust the angles on the axle to keep in spec, and also the steering (drop pitman, etc)

Lots here on the board - look at others who have done a 4" lift here and see how they did it. If I could do it again I would have upgraded to a wider spring. The pro-comp 2.5" lift I have is great but I still get some side flex from the skinny springs.

 

Measure the diameter of the rear wheel well - I think it's between 33" and 34". If your tire will fit in the opening, then you won't need as much lift. Note that most tires that are called 31 or 32 or whatever actually have a smaller diameter than the stated size.

You can also get interference at the back of the front fenders. The long fenders ('72-on) tend to hit at the back, while the earlier short fenders ('71-back) catch the front edge.

At some point you're just raising the body over the wheels, with no more articulation - I'd be scared to drive a short wheelbase Jeep with a 4" lift and big tires on the highway due to the high COG. With big tires, you also won't skid if you try to avoid; instead, you'll roll. You can't steer around obstacles like in a passenger car, so you would have a choice of a collision (if you have the presence of mind not to try a quick lane change) or a rollover. High COG is bad. Don't lift any more than you really need to.

 

Also!

Remember that where you can go mostly depends on driver skill, and much, much less so on how the vehicle is equipped. Big tires will help, but the difference in where you can go in your Jeep when equipped with 35s instead of 32s is likely insignificant.

 

The width of the tire you want to run is also relevant. With a 4" lift and a 2+" body lift and the rear fenders trimmed, I still hit the outside edge of the rear fenders at full stuff with 35"x13.50 tires. However, 35" x 10.50's or maybe even 12.50's would probably be fine. If you are not doing much in the way of big rocks, I'd stick with 33's. For an all-around trail tire I don't think you can beat that size. You will also note a difference in acceleration between 33 and 35" tires. I thought it was a pretty significant difference. I rarely make it into 4th gear anymore unless I'm on the highway. 3rd overdrive is all I can manage around town. Ultimately, you can build your rig to work on the trails you are able to run or you can build it for the way you want it to "look". 35's might look pretty cool, but unless you have or are willing to put some serious low gears in your axles, you won't be happy with the way it handles when you are done. In the pics of the green Renegade, it looks to me like he trimmed the rear fenders and put Wrangler flares on them to fit the 35's.

 

Here is mine. 4+ inches of lift and 35x12.5 MTRs on Wide-Track axles. I still had to trim the fenders to keep the tires out of them. As it is I can stuff each tire all the way to the top of the wheel well still. I swapped 2.5" wide springs in when I rebuilt the suspension. After I got all the steering stuff straightened out, it drives really good at 65 MPH.

 

Before my engine swap project sidelined my CJ 5 I ran a Rubicon Express HD 4.5 inch suspension ,,,as a daily driver, with very little problems on the highway. The key is setting up the steering geometry to aqccomadate the lift. However, as Tim pointed out, no matter how "Safe" and "Stable" it is at highway speed,,sudden maneuvewrs WILL cause a roll-over. I had to learn to make gradual changes in direction sooner to compensate( as in dont try changing lanes in .5 seconds). Good luck with your upgrqade, whether you go with 2.5 or 4 inch,,just plan it out right.

 

A lot of great info here. Thanks. Problem is I am still undecided. If I go with a 2" and end up wanting more, then I will have wasted time and money. Damn 5's look bad (as in good) with 35's. I will let everyone know what I order.

 

Having recently been in a rollover, hit going 45 mph, I am forever thankful I wasn't in the CJ-5. I have pictures of the jeep commander on my website after it rolled four times. If you'll be on real roads, really, really consider Tim's post. I wouldn't be as concerned if its on a trailer to the trails.

 

DANA, first I am glad everyone is ok. that is one nast looking roll. Do you feel that the Black Diamond 3" is saffer to run? I see you stuffed 35's under that. Thats a good looking 5. Thanks.

 

To be brutally honest...I have never felt 100% "safe" in any CJ5 at 65 or 70 mph. It's not really an issue of wandering...with everything done right...you can pretty much eliminate any wandering. At freeway speeds...my current CJ drives straight as can be...What always runs through my mind when doing 70 in a CJ is what would happen if I needed to do some serious evasive moves. Even a stock lift CJ will roll over if you have to turn too sharp too fast and any lift just magnifies that problem. I personally limit any CJ that is going to be street legal to 4 inches. Currently I am running a 4 inch with 33 12.50's. You can definitely tell the difference in the center of gravity from when driving a stock one...but it also does not feel as if it's going to flop over at any second. In example...I live up a very curvy road that follows a river...it is full of 25 and 30 MPH posted corners. My CJ with the 4 inch can go into these corners at the suggested MPH and even a little faster and not feel at all tippy. My last CJ would start to lift the tires off the ground if you went the suggested MPH around the corner. In my opinion...too much lift of a CJ can zap all the fun out of owning one...If you are constantly trying to keep it off its top...it makes it hard to enjoy driving it.

 

I actually traded with a guy in my club for 33s, but the picture is with 35s. The black Jeep has a 6" lift, but it sees no roadways beyond getting to the trail and then I'm not going fast. I've always been a bit of a granny driver though and the accident magnified my paranoia. In the past I wouldn't have given more that two thoughts to rollovers/stability, but now that I've experienced it I just wanted to put neon lights around what others have said- I don't think the 5 has good survivability odds in a freeway rollover. I'd minimize that possibility. Mine is a 3" and the 33s seems happy, but I couldn't do hard wheeling. A light trail (ie dirt road) would be fine. Once again, what you put on really depends on your usage, but big lifts have serious on road drawbacks. But McGilicudy says his 4" is okay- folks that have the 4" will best describe road manners. I'd think the wider the tire the more stable it would be, too.

 

I'm glad I found this post. I'm having the same dilemma. Someone said the driver's skill is IT, much more valuable than how the vehicle is set up. Actually.. now hear me out... I've taken my Liberty places that those big "tarantula" TJs couldn't go solely because their well built Jeeps were simply too tall and tipsy. So, my question is this, since I'm not concerned much about trimming/cutting the body and fenderwells, why couldn't you keep a near stock height and cut the heck out of the fenders (you're probably gonna bend 'em up anyhow) to fit the bigger tires needed to traverse the big cracks/crevices?

 

The black jeep has tube fenders on, and rear slider pipe fenders. Also hockey pucks to limit the tires coming up into the wheelwell, and limiting bolts on the knuckles - mostly to not oversteer the pump but has a side benefit of stopping the tires before rubbing. I wouldn't even consider cutting up PJ (pink jeep), but then she's not intended for offroad use. All depends on what you want/are willing to do. I did use wheel spacers on PJ to mitigate rubbing possibilities.

 

Damn this choice is the hardest I have had to make with the Jeep yet. I live in the country, and basicly use the Jeep to kick around the back roads with my wife and dog. I may just have to erase the thoughts of ever driving it back and forth to work. I want to be safe, and not overly connfident in my driving skill. I think a 2" lift may be the way to go. I have a 1" body lift in the garage waiting to be installed. So maybe I'll do that and stuff some 33's and call it a day. The Jeep is no use to me if it is unstable. Thanks everyone. Next question. What brand 2" lift would you guys recommend. The use would mostly be back roads and light trails. I want something that rides better, softer, then a wagon. I know it won't be a Caddy, but what gets me clossest to that.

 

I agree. I believe I will be putting a 2" lift on mine. I do have another question though. Somebody put those goofy looking long shackles on both front and rear axles but they only put them on the flexible end (front of the front axle, rear of the rear axle) so naturally a 6" long shackle replacement would lift the Jeep a couple of inches. I guess that was the intent but man it would really get in the way off road. Anyhow, I'm just working on it an hour or so a night when possible so I'm just ordering some little parts here and there. When I bought it, my primary objective was to get it legal and inspected, which I did. Next I wanted to get it level from side to side so although I have big axle replacement plans (for later no doubt), I'm gonna work with what I've got for now so I ordered factory replacemtent shackles and thought I'd rearch the original springs. Now that I've got the old leaf springs out, I'm thinking instead of putting those old leaves back in rearched or what have you, I'd like to just get entirely new lift springs, bushings, etc. I said all that to ask this... everywhere I look at lift kits, none seem to come with shackles. Since I've already got new factory width shackles, will the new lift kit springs fit the factory shackles, assuming I order the ones for my year model? The lift kit pics just make the springs look much wider.