Tranny broke

Looking at a used one, but the guy doesnt know what he has for sure. He said the number on the tranny is 13-02-066-908 can any one tell me what this is and will it work in my 72 cj5 with a 304.

 

1302 indicates a Borg-Warner T-14. Your Jeep has a Borg-Warner T-15 from the factory, if it came with the 304.

What's wrong with the transmission you have? The Borg-Warner 3-speeds are not hard to overhaul.

 

Thanks tim I have to get it out and see just what I have. This guy has this tranny and tc with two drive lines for 500 bucks thats suposed to be in good shape, you never know, just looking at some options. What should I look for as to id this tranny in my cj?

 

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/t15.htm

Try this web site

 

Lots of good info on the Novak site.

However, their applications info about the T-15 has a few errors.

First, the T-15 was never offered with the 232. It was offered with the 258 in the full-size Jeeps (J-truck, Wagoneer and Cherokee) but never in the CJ.

The T-150 replaced both the T-14 and the T-15 in CJs in 1976, but the T-15 continued to be offered as the base transmission in the FSJs through 1979.

The run of the T-15 was not that short: mid 1970 through 1979 in the Jeep line. It was the only transmission offered with the 304 in the CJ from 1972 through 1975, and the only manual transmission offered in the 72-73 304 Commando.

 

From the Novak site: "The T15 may have the following casting numbers: T15 or 1307, or 13-07-065-901 and these are typically found on the passenger's side."

I think the wording of this is very weak... I would say: "The T15 will have casting numbers T15, 1307, or 13-07-065-901, found on the passenger's side of the transmission case." AFAIK every T-15 out there will have one of these casting numbers.

 

The T14 is not nearly as strong as the T15, so keep that in mind. You can tear up a T14 pretty quick behind a V8 if your not careful.

 

doesn't the t15 also have an eight hole top and a couple bumps prutuding on the drivers side. so Tim you say these aren't hard to rebuild, is there any "special" tools needed.

 

any competent transmission shop should be able to rebuild it with ease. if youve never done it, and don't know whats involved id recommend thumbing through the yellow pages and start getting prices on rebuilds.

you'll pay more than if you did it yourself, or maybe even just bought a used one. BUT youll know that its good to go, and will have some kind of warranty on it.

 

Herm has rebuilt T14 and T150 for $450 rebuilt, I would think you could get a T15 rebuilt for a similar price. $500 seems a lot for a used T14 even with the TC thrown in.
http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id41.htm

 

They come apart fairly easily - replacing the input and output bearings requires a fancy puller if you follow the FSM. I have taken them apart with hand tools - but it's been too long to remember the details. However, I did not replace the main bearings in the transmissions I worked on. Getting the bearings out of the case was not a problem; getting them off of the shaft will be.

For a complete overhaul, you'll need to replace the main bearings, and I think those can't be removed without some kind of puller. The Jeep pullers fit in the snap ring grooves to pull the bearings off of the shaft. I think Jim (jpflat2a) had some advice about this.

 

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46030&highlight=T15+bearing+replacement

Might help

 

Some random thoughts ... these are very dusty thoughts though, and may not be accurate.

I think the input shaft has a crescent cut out of it so that you can remove the input shaft without dropping the countershaft into the case. If not, you can slide the countershaft out of the case, drop the cluster gear to the bottom, and pull out the input shaft and bearing together.

I recall I wiggled out the rear bearing using a screwdriver and prying carefully in the snap ring slot. Go all around the bearing, a little at a time.

With the main shaft and input shaft out, you can press the bearings off the shafts. Pretty sure that everything will come off of the main shaft without removing the bearing.

The manual shows how to drive the new bearings on.

Your small parts kit may come with a gazillion lock rings. Get an inexpensive vernier caliper and put the same thickness of rings back that you took off.

You need a good pair of lock ring pliers like these http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3R221

 

Thanks for the help I think I will look at having the tranny rebuilt, just have to get it out maybe my 17 year old son will help me as he was the one driving it when she broke, not likely, up to the old man once more.