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Hydrolic Experts needed

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by DanStew, Aug 22, 2004.

  1. DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    I think i may have found my problem. i measured the throw on my slave cylinder and it is about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch of throw. The throw should be 1.36 inches.

    [​IMG]

    This is the slave i am using.

    I looked at the specs of the MC i am using for the slave and it is a 3/4 bore MC. Is this MC suitable for this slave cylinder or should i go larger?? I can get a 1 inch bore MC?? The slave and MC are little more than a year old.

    What do you guys think?? I tightened my slave down a little more at th efork and it still grinds, and i do not want to go any further with adjsuting the slave cylinder.

    Do you think this slave cylidner has an adjsutment on it to control the throw perhaps??

    Thanks!!!
     
  2. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Dan, here's what I understand you have: slave cylinder, 0.88" diam. master cylinder, 0.75" diam. This means that your slave cylinder will move 0.726" (roughly 3/4") for each inch of movement of the master cylinder. If you go to a 1" bore master cyl, your slave cyl will move 1.29" (about 1 1/4"") for each inch of master cyl movement. Is this what you're asking? If the slave cylinder diameter is smaller than the master cylinder, the movement is increased and the force is reduced. The opposite happens if the slave is larger than the master.

    The ratio of distances moved is fixed by the diameters of the two cylinders. You can't change the relative amount of movement unless you change the cylinder diameters.
     
  3. DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Thanks Tim. That is what i needed to hear. Yes i want to increase my throw on the slave. So i will get the larger MC and then i should probably have it right :) Should is the operative word :(

    But thanks!!!
     
  4. 66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    from your drawing, it appears that you could screw the helm joint out. I don't know if that would increase your travel or not.
     
  5. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    You could also change the attachment points. For more movement at the throwout bearing, you'd move the MC attachment point down on the pedal arm (away from the pivot), or move the fork attachment point inward (toward the pivot).
     
  6. DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    I am kind of confused Tim. Are you talking bout the pushrod that is attached to the pedal??
     
  7. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Adjusting the pushrod doesn't change the action. It only changes the overall length of the cylinder.

    You don't push directly on each cylinder. Instead, the force is applied and delivered by levers (the clutch pedal arm and the clutch fork). Besides changing the diameters of the hydraulic cylinders, you can change the geometry of these levers.

    To increase the movement at the clutch pedal, you either have to move the master cylinder more (by moving the attachment point down on the clutch pedal arm) or you can change the length or pivot point of the clutch fork. These geometric changes can happen in addition to the change in relative distances due to changes in cylinder diameters.
     
  8. DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Another thing i just noticed. I popped my head under the dash. I looked at the pushrod to the pedal. Well it looks to be not horizonal, but rather pointed up about 10 degrees. (used angle finder) Would this be the limiting factor?? I can drill the hole down and bolt it to th epedal to make it horizonal. Or will this not affect much??
     
  9. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Well, yeah, if you can arrange to move the master cylinder more, then the slave will move more too. The most movement will happen when the cylinder axis is at 90 degrees to the clutch pedal arm.
     
  10. DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    OK. let me redrill this and try it. So i guess the 10 degrees will make a pretty good differnce. ;)
     
  11. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Hmm... yeah... 10 degrees isn't that much, but you'd get both an increase in distance by pushing straight on to the cylinder, as well as an increase by moving the load away from the lever's fulcrum.
     
  12. DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Another thing i did notice is that i have about 1/4 inch play in the pedal from hitting the stop till it rests at the pushrod. I also think this is limiting my throw a touch.
     
  13. dauntless

    dauntless New Member

    Dan --

    Sorry I'm only coming in so late in your discussion, but I have some input. I converted to a hydraulic clutch when I did my Buick 350 engine swap, and I had a similar issue finding a slave cylinder with enough throw for the clutch. I ended up finding this one:

    http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=314

    It's a slave cylinder with 1-3/8" throw. I bought the kit that came with the mounting bracket (for Chevy 350) and adapted it to my bellhousing. I ended up modifying the pushrod so that it fit my clutch fork better than the heim it comes with. If you run out of options with your current setup, you might try looking into this.

    Hope it helps,
    Jeff
     
  14. Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep.. 2024 Sponsor

    Just remember that going to a larger master will give you more slave travel it will also increase pedal effort as force=pressure x area.. you do the math..



    BUBBA
     
  15. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Bubba is right Dan, though I think you are focusing too much on the cylinders and not on the levers, where the actual work is done. The hydraulics are just a way to transfer the work from the pedal arm to the clutch fork, although you can design the hydraulics to give you more or less mechanical advantage.

    Look at this simple drawing;
    [​IMG]

    There are two things you can't change 1) the distance the clutch fork must move in order to disengage the clutch, and 2) the distance the pedal can move. All of your mechanical advantage comes from these two distances. Let's say the fork must move 1" and the pedal moves 4", then your mechanical advantage is 4:1. You apply 20lb of force at the pedal to get 80lb of force at the fork.

    If you design the system properly, when you move the clutch pedal "enough", the clutch fork will move "enough." Let's say that you want the clutch to disengage at half the pedal throw, then you must combine the efffect of the distance of the load from the fulcrum and the ratio between the areas of the two cylinders, as Bubba pointed out.
     
  16. DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Good picture Tim,
    Now say i lower the pushrod below the 90 degrees the pushrod is to the Pedal then i am getting more throw then from the pedal??
     
  17. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Dan, the angle doesn't make that much difference, as long as the difference from 90 degrees is small. We can calculate the meaning of small:
    sin(85 degrees) = 0.99, or 99% of the movement we'd have at 90 degrees.
    sin(80 degrees) = .98
    sin(70 degrees) = .94
    sin(60 degrees) = .86
    sin(45 degrees) = .70

    So less than about 20 degrees difference doesn't significantly change the MC stroke length.

    The distance of the load from the fulcrum has a much stronger effect though. Let's say the pedal moves 4" and the load is 5" from the fulcrum, and the pedal arm is 20" long. Then the movement of the piston will be 1" (5"/20" * 4" = 1"). The further the load is from the fulcrum, the longer the MC stroke is going to be.

    Get out your tape measure and measure the length of the pedal arm, from the fulcrum to the pedal. Measure the distance of the MC from the fulcrum, and divide that by the length of the pedal arm. You'll get some number smaller than 1. Measure the distance traveled by the pedal from its stop to the floor, and multiply that by the small number. That's the maximum distance for the MC stroke. For the 0.75 MC and 0.88 SC, multiply the MC stroke by .75 to get the SC stroke. If that's not the stroke you are getting, than either the measurements are wrong, you have differnt parts than you thought, or something is broken (like air in the cylinders).
     
  18. DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    OK. i redrilled the attachmenbt point to 90 degrees to MC. I also went ahead and reset the slave cylinder so that therer is no preload. So i get in an start the jeep. I still grind going into first, i can get it into reverse, as soon as i get it in gear the jeep starts back. Good thing is i can stand on the brake and the jeep WILL NOT die. But i cant get it into first. I am also at the max on the pushrod extension. And when i drilled the new hole i went about 1/2 inch longer than the original hole. So now Here i am, still grinding. I do not think it will make much differnce if i lower the hole a bit more because i cannot get any more length from the pushrod. Should i try anyway and drill a lower hole and try it again?? If i do drill a new hole then if that doesnt work it looks like it is time for a just a tad larger MC.
     
  19. DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    I looked at it again. I noticed with that new hole, i didnt have the pedal as fully extended as it could be (meaning i could get a bit more throw) so i drilled another hole back and now that i have the pedal looking like swiss cheese I tried the clutch again. This time the pedal was a little hard to push it, and there seemed to be a binding issue now. The pedal will go in about halfway, then i have to give it a little more force and it goes all the way, it seems like it is catching on something. I checked the pushrod and it is pushing normally. Almost seems like it is something internal in the MC. Possibly I wore a ridge in the MC?? Gonna go check under the jeep and see if it is hanging on something under the jeep. But even when i get the pedal in all the way i still grind putting it into gear.
     
  20. DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Well nothing is hanging up under the jeep. I have drilled another hole and i seem to have the sweet spot since it doesnt bind anymore, but it still grinds. I think i may go for a bit larger MC.

    I am looking at this one
    [​IMG]
    http://www.secureperformanceorder.c...ssID=38&SubclassID=171&ProductID=1858

    it is available in 3/4, 7/8 and 1 inch bores. I emailed the company to ask if there is a seperate resovior with it, i hope not because i have space constraints under the hood. Now I need to know if i need the 7/8 or the 1 inch MC. I do not want to buy one and can't use it. If i just went to the 1 inch and it pushes more fluid than i need, will i blow out the seals on the slave cylinder with it?? That is one thing i am worried about.