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replacing 304 motor mount rubber procedure

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by incynr8, Aug 31, 2009.

  1. incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    Is it possible to simply loosen the engine mounts and isolators and slightly jack up the engine to facilitate replacement? I look to refresh mine simply due to age.

    I assume the one under the transmission is far more involved?

    thanks, I searched but didn't find anything definitive on procedure

    '74, factory 304
     
  2. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    I haven't done it on a Jeep, but I did it on my F-100.

    Block under the pan, loosen bolts, lift with a bottle jack, R&R, lower.

    Trans mount would be easier, I'd think. Support the trans and remove the whole cross-member if you don't have enough clearance.
     
  3. incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    thanks. I will check into doing both.
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2009
  4. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    watch the clearance between the fan blades and shroud (if equipped)
     
  5. incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    it's got shroud, I noticed that, probably have to make clearance.
     
  6. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    loosen the bolts that hold the shroud
    some were slotted
    if you're careful and don't raise too high, you'll be okay
     
  7. incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    awesome! thanks!
     
  8. rixcj

    rixcj Member

    When I changed the rubber mounts, I took the engine weight off of the mount brackets (actually just lifted the engine up, minimally).

    Then I unbolted the frame mounts, from the frame. This was the easiest way that I found to get everything apart, and back together, without lifting the engine up too much.

    Fortunately, none of the bolts gave me a hard time.

    Rich
     
  9. Psychojeeper

    Psychojeeper Aint 'sposed to be pretty

  10. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Re the T-15, I've owned and rebuilt them in the past, and own two of them now. It seems like the 2nd gear synchro gets worn out much quicker than the others. The trans in my pickup is worn, but I have no problem driving it. If I try to shift fast , it will clash, and I always double clutch on a downshift. Note that you don't need syncromesh to shift the gears - average people were driving crashboxes everywhere decades before the syncromesh trans became common.
     
  11. incynr8

    incynr8 Member

    Tim,
    I used to drive splitcase trans crashbox VW bus. :) I do the same, I double on the downshift and do a slow smooth shift while matching. I got upshifting perfect but second down I have to be extra careful.
    Al