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Novak's Std. T90 To 225 V6 3/4" Adapter Install

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by Jeepsterjim, Oct 3, 2022.

  1. Oct 3, 2022
    Jeepsterjim

    Jeepsterjim Member

    Lincoln, CA
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2019
    Messages:
    367
    Hi guys
    Wondering if any of you have used Novak's 3/4" thick 225 V6 to the STD. T90 trans adapter in your CJ2A/3A. I purchased one and am in the process of positioning the motor/trans. The question(s) I have is since the Novak adapter is 2" smaller in thickness then the STD. adapter, are you moving the motor forward 2" or ?
    I am using factory CJ5 V6 steel motor mounts that weld to the frame.
    I can do a body lift since the body is simply resting on the frame.

    It seems the shift levers become a problem if moved forward to much.
    Valve cover/firewall clearance ...... body lift?
     
  2. Oct 3, 2022
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    USA
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    Oct 25, 2006
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    5,494
    Are you going to run hanging pedals and power brakes with a booster? Its tight if you do to the valve cover. a 1.5" body lift make this easier.

    I would mock it all up, tack the mounts in and put the tub back on for fit then take it off and finish. Its a whole lot easier to build your drivelines and exhaust when the tub is off.
     
  3. Oct 3, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Jul 18, 2013
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    I am a bit confused here - seems that if the novak adapter is thinner than the one coming out, then either the transmission has to move forward, or the engine has to move rearward, or some combination of the two. Engine placement is usually priority, the rest sort of follows in place after that. I found (per Novak suggestion) that I was able to use a decent C-clamp to hold the mount to the frame and mount the engine to it - I kept a hoist with slightly slack chain attached and I didn't crawl under it, but it allows for easy slight adjustments in positioning. I fitted the cross-member and transfercase mount with the engine mounts just C-clamped on.
     
  4. Oct 3, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    Also, the shift levers are easily bent for clearance to the dash/seats/each other/whatever.
     
  5. Oct 3, 2022
    Jeepsterjim

    Jeepsterjim Member

    Lincoln, CA
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2019
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    367
    Going with swing pedals. Have already moved the front crossmember forward so radiator clearance should be good. The body is simply resting on the frame so doing a body lift is no problem.
    MY main concerns is learning what others have done when using the short adapter. How far forward did one move the trans/xfer crossmember? body lift? did one level the motor front to rear? side to side? Driveshaft clearance between front driveshaft and bellhousing. Shift lever problems? ETC. A lot to learn.
     
  6. Oct 3, 2022
    Jw60

    Jw60 Airbender and interrupter of the light guard. 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    3,085
    I realize I have a chevy... and a 2.625" adapter... In a 5... but the engine determines for and aft placement. This is a conversion not a swap. Do it right the first time and you will be dollars ahead.
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  7. Oct 9, 2022
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
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    5,296
    Ya - I've put several V6s in Flatties and the biggest mistake I've seen others do is NOT position the motor first. You need to bump it up a bit to clear the firewall, then set the rest in place. This includes the pedal changes needed to make it right. I go full swinging pedals now days as it is SO much easier than fighting the stock clutch tube setup.

    I've also used the Novak setups for the T90 to V6 (first time in the 70s) - most of what I learned, I was using that adaptor (and have some here still).
     
  8. Oct 9, 2022
    Jeepsterjim

    Jeepsterjim Member

    Lincoln, CA
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2019
    Messages:
    367
    I just wrote up a post about a mock up regarding a v6 install I am doing. Would you mind checking it out and letting me know what I need to change? OR ANYONE ELSE!

    https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/little-by-little.24630/page-5
     
  9. Oct 10, 2022
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,296
    Took a look - your pretty close.
    • An inch is a large amount of room for things that 'don't move' - not much for those that do. The V6 will torque roll. Not sure of the years, but some came with a shock mounted on an arm for it.
    • I actually prefer to us Novak's Motor mount so I can move the engine up a touch.
    • The body lift is the same I'm running on the '50 and '49 I currently own. Remember the drive train sets the center of gravity for rollover - not tub height.
    • Gives clearance for air cleaner as well and I tuck the drive train up a bit for more ground clearance. I also put @ 2.5" suspension lift in - more room for front drive shaft and oil filter.
    • Think about swinging pedals - I've gone as far as bumping the firewall out on the driver side to make it smoother for two pedals on the '49 build. Probably won't do that when I convert the old Chevy MC setup on the '50 to dual and focus more on custom pedal arms.
    • Didn't see if your going Saginaw - I run the Summit tilt column or can fab the Speedway to adapt to the stock steering wheel.
    Couldn't zoom in on the pics as my ID had expired - not used it on Old Willys in years so put in for a new one.

    Always open to questions and if you want pics - let me know.
     
    47v6 likes this.
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