2.5" lift: do I need to lower transfer case?

Any opinions on this?

 

No!

 

OK, that is fairly clear.....R)

didn't think so, but just checking. powertrain is in now and I s/b putting the tub on this weekend, so i wanted to get done with underbody stuff before I go on.

 

I've seen lowered T-cases on newer jeeps (mostly cherokees) but I can't remember ever seeing a lowered one on an older CJ-5.

Any reason why that is? Does the driveline just accept more lift without issues even at funny angles?

 

no

 

I don't know how your cross member is in relation to the frame rails, but most of the all original jeeps that I have encountered have three 1/4-inch plates between the cross member and the frame. If your jeep doesn't have these spacers, then it may be a good idea to include them. I think that a stock jeep with spacers removed is o.k., a lifted jeep with spacers in-place is o.k., but a lifted jeep with spacers removed could cause problems.

 

Is it three between the frame and c/m? Mine has two there and two inside the frame rail(if that makes sense). I too am installing a 2.5" lift.
That's the way it was set up when I took it apart. That's not to say the p/o didn't change it.

 

I've seen tree 1/4 spacers all between the cross-member and the frame rail. The spacers lower the transfer case and cross-member about 3/4 of an inch or slightly more. I have seen it this way on several jeeps that appeared to be untouched. However, most of the time, I have seen these spacers completely removed, particularly on jeeps that were obviously not "original". Maybe someone with more experience could chime in on this.

 

Mine has no spacers and 2.5 lift with no problems . When I do my T98 swap Im going to put the spacer in because of the shorter drive shaft and steaper angle.

 

mine were oak 3/8" thick. don't know if it was factory or not. replaced with steel when I swapped in the t14.

 

My 74 has two 1/4" spacers on each side, been that way 13 years since I've owned it no problems with u joints 2.5" lift 1" shackle.

 

It is not required but it does reduce the angle of the drive shaft if you lower it a bit. I lowered mine 1" when I installed a lift and the resulting angle of the drive shaft was drastically reduced.

Not required but it will extend the life of the U-Joints.

 

When I swapped in the sm420 trans I tried 1" spacers to gain floor clearance but it caused a terrible driveshaft vibration. Took the spacers out and cut the floor more & it's been fine for several years.

Seems backwards but that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.

 

This is why when I wanted about 4" lift I put on 2-1/2 lift springs and then lifted the Body a couple of inches. On lifts that get more than 3" on a short wheel based 4x4 drive line angle becomes a big issue-- its an issue that can get you stranded in the out-back if not managed. This is why Tom Wood does such a good business with his special drive shafts. But 2 and 1/2 inches is something you can get by with. But if you lifted you Cj5 four inches and ran a longer tranny (sm420 or longer) you would be in a potential U-joint cramp.


Now my in my CJ6 and the rear drive shaft is significantly longer than a CJ5(Decreasing the U-Joint angles). I have aways frowned on any kind of Body lift-- but I gained so much clearance for bigger trannies, radiators, Extra gas tanks, Bigger tires, exhaust pipe clearance, Clutch linkage-- air flow for cooling-- and TIRE CHAINS on Large tires---- that I did it anyway. A pure spring lift will increase articulation more however--- but I mostly wanted to run 33s with Tire Chains. This is because of my obcession with driving in 3- five foot foot deep heavy snow. Lockers, 33s and Chains on all fours and you can blaze through grill-hood deep snow! This is another reason I got a CJ6 is because a longer wheel base is advantageous in the snow. This is because I am going to return to rural living situation-- and need to not be completely snow bound between the one mile between my cabin and the pavement. Also there is nothing I love more is pulling later model Toyotas, Rovers, and Hummers out of snow banks with an antique old Chained-up Jeep!

 

If you are strickly going 2.5", then no. If you add say, a 1" body lift or HD shackles (most give you an extra 0.50 - 1.0") then you may start to get some vibrations (I did). I added 1" spacers on the crossmember bolts and everyone is happy and quiet now.....