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71 Wheeling Rig

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Fireball, Jan 18, 2021.

  1. Apr 11, 2021
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    USA
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
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    5,230
    Wire wheels have their place, but I would rather use anything else. Generally I use a scotch brite pad on a 90 degree burr gun. I generally use that on every gasket surface unless its aluminum.
     
    wheelie, Fireball and dozerjim like this.
  2. Apr 11, 2021
    Mr Vaughan

    Mr Vaughan Fly by the seat of your pants

    Central City, NE
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2020
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    1,110
    there's gonna be some good advice reassembling my 18 here.
     
  3. Apr 11, 2021
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2021 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    Mar 6, 2004
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    I've been contemplating doing my exhaust like this, or similar, for a while now, hoping to quiet it down a bit. I just wasn't sure if it would work and not rub. I've seen a lot of talk about it here and still haven't been convinced. Maybe it's time.
     
  4. Apr 11, 2021
    Rich M.

    Rich M. Shoe pusher

    Maryland
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2008
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    1,168
    Better get after it :cool:
     
    wheelie likes this.
  5. Apr 11, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    Here's proof. This is with the tire stuffed pretty good. You can see the tire hitting the fender up at the top, but there is plenty of room to the exhaust:
    [​IMG]
     
    homersdog, wheelie and Rich M. like this.
  6. Apr 11, 2021
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2021 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    Maybe I missed it but, what diameter exhaust pipe is that?
     
  7. Apr 11, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    2" exhaust.
     
  8. Apr 12, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    Drove around the farm fields again today. I think I've gotten enough movement on the springs it's time to re-torque the U-bolts.

    Did a quick ramp test to look at some clearances. I couldn't quite get full flex before the left front tire started to climb, but it's fairly close:
    [​IMG]

    In back the tire hits the fender before the exhaust and the stuffed tire is a long ways from the bump stop. I should probably lower the bump stops a decent amount:
    [​IMG]

    I was wondering if the front driveshaft would be close to the starter or if there wasn't room for the larger non-v6 u-joints. No worries there. I also need to lower the bumpstops in the front (not that you can see the compressed side in this picture):
    [​IMG]

    After dinner I did more work on the transfer case.

    Cleaned up the twin-stick parts I bought fro another memnber:
    [​IMG]

    There was some corrosion on the shift rails:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Polished them up with Scotch Brite and oil, then moved to fine sandpaper with oil:
    [​IMG]

    They came out reasonably well with very small pits remaining. The seals may seep a little bit but I they'll seal decent:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is the worst spot. Luckily it's internal so I don't have to worry about it sealing:
    [​IMG]

    Then I cleaned up the the shifters. The stripper wheel made short work of that job:
    [​IMG]

    I'm hoping to paint all the external parts tomorrow so I can start assembly.
     
  9. Apr 13, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    Got one more day before the farmers start working the ground. After work Emmett and I drove up a different hill to check the neighbor's burn . Emmett got to run all the way back to the house:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    After that is was a bunch degreasing and masking. Man these are complicated shapes:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And painting:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2021
  10. Apr 13, 2021
    '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Active Member

    Fair Oaks, CA
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2005
    Messages:
    1,211
    Loving this Jeep! What paint are you using for the transfer case? Getting ready to rebuild my D20 and might as well paint it while I'm there.
     
  11. Apr 13, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    Rustoleum Satin Black. I've use it on everything for years now and it seems to hold up great. The biggest downside is it takes a long time to dry. I usually let it sit overnight.
     
    wheelie likes this.
  12. Apr 13, 2021
    '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Active Member

    Fair Oaks, CA
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    Sep 1, 2005
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    That stuff is great, just about the only thing I use. (y)
     
    wheelie likes this.
  13. Apr 14, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Cleaned up the workspace for assembly work.

    Pulled the masking tape off everything. It all turned out nice:
    [​IMG]

    Put the parking brake together:
    [​IMG]

    Found a piece of conduit smaller than the intermediate shaft I can chop down to hold the rollers in place during assembly:
    [​IMG]

    Then I went in the house and scanned the Novak rebuild docs so I can view them on the computer. Otherwise I'll inevitably soak them in oil or something.

    I need to run into town tomorrow for some seat spacers, shackle bolts, and spray-on gasket sealer for the D18 output shims.
     
  14. Apr 15, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    A bunch of transfer case work tonight. I started by watching Metalshaper's video. Well worth taking the time for that.

    Started by cleaning all the bores with Scotch Brite:
    [​IMG]

    Noticed some holes with the threads pulled out:
    [​IMG]

    Filed them down:
    [​IMG]

    Better:
    [​IMG]

    Cleaned all the threaded holes with a tap:
    [​IMG]

    This is the sort of stuff that came out:
    [​IMG]

    More crud came out the bottom side of the holes in the process:
    [​IMG]

    When I was pounding out the intermediate shaft I obviously hit the case once with the punch:
    [​IMG]

    I filed the bump off so the shaft fits again:
    [​IMG]

    After that I use compressed air to blow all the stuff out of the case and wiped it down for assembly.

    Picked the better of two hi/low shift forks based on clearance with the gear and used red Loctite on the set screw:
    [​IMG]

    The bushing for the front output shaft measured 0.630. Just within spec so I left it rather than start a major project changing it out. Used the old bearing and a socket to press the new rear bearing on the ouput shaft:
    [​IMG]

    Put the lower gears in the case, slide the output shaft through them, added the thrust washer, and worked the hidden snap ring into place:
    [​IMG]

    Braced the output shaft against the wall and used a socket along with the old bearing to pound the new front bearing into place:
    [​IMG]

    It's tight against the snap ring:
    [​IMG]

    Tapped the front race in with a plastic tipped hammer:
    [​IMG]

    Cleaned the bolts for the front/rear housings:
    [​IMG]

    Torqued the front housing into place with the gasket to set the depth of the front bearing race. Had to use a crow's foot to get to some bolts:
    [​IMG]

    Tapped in the rear race until there was a little free play and measured needing about .085 worth of shims. Torqued the rear housing into place and had no freeplay so I switched and swapped shims to get a .094 stack and torqued that into place. With that stack, I'm getting .0045 end play that I'm happy with. I'm not sure if I should make my shim stack a couple thousandths smaller to account for the spray on sealer when I do the final assembly.
    [​IMG]

    As it sits at the end of the night. Lower shaft in place and shim pack finalized. Next is removing the front/rear housings and buttoning them up permanently:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2021
    Rubicloak, Jw60, locrwln and 17 others like this.
  15. Apr 15, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member

    South Lake Tahoe CA
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    Jan 22, 2014
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    202
    Very nice photos and detail. Things like cleaning out the thread holes and filing, all great tips. Makes me want to slow down and do mine right here in a little while.
     
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  16. Apr 15, 2021
    jeep peep69

    jeep peep69 Member 2021 Sponsor

    redding ca.
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    Don’t you need to set your end play with the yoke on and torqued? I’m asking because I just did mine and had a horrible time getting any free play but I was putting the yoke on.
     
  17. Apr 15, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    The Novak guide shows checking without the yoke: The Novak Guide to Rebuilding the Jeep / IH Dana 18 Transfer Case

    In theory, the yoke bottoms against the speedometer gear which then bottoms against the inner bearing race so it shouldn't make any difference in the setting unless the bearing wasn't seated all the way the first time. Tightening the yoke will definitely seat the bearing.
     
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  18. Apr 15, 2021
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2021 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    Fireball likes this.
  19. Apr 16, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Interesting. Nickmil knows what he's doing. We'll see if I need to take it apart again after torquing the flange nut.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
  20. Apr 16, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Made more progress tonight.

    Started by cleaning the oil off the shim pack so the spray on gasket sealer will stick:
    [​IMG]

    Then I realized I need the parking brake in place to torque the rear output housing but it blocks the installation of the intermediate shaft. So I switched gears to the intermediate shaft. Cut a chunk of conduit to hold the rollers in place:
    [​IMG]

    The Novak intermediate shafts are nice with o-rings to seal the ends. I put a little oil on the o-ring to help it slide in without tearing:
    [​IMG]

    Thrust washers stuck in place with grease:
    [​IMG]

    For the life of me, I couldn't get the gear to slide down between the trust washers. Finally I remembered this thread from over a year ago: Psa - Dana 18 Thrust Washer Issue. Sure enough the new washers are 0.096 and out of the 0.092-0.094 spec. My old ones were worn down to 0.089:
    [​IMG]

    Novak definitely knows about the problem but is still shipping non-working parts a year later. I realized using one old and one new washer would put me exactly in the middle of the spec so I chose the best old one and did exactly that. The gear dropped right in. It's .003" off center, but that's better than being loose. It spins freely and you can't feel any perceptible rock or end-to-end play:
    [​IMG]

    Here's my halfa$$ pipe holding the rollers in place while the gear is dropped into the case and the shaft inserted. It worked great and slide right out the back leaving the rollers in place. I didn't need to use grease to hold them in place so I don't have to worry about the grease not dissolving. I liberally oiled it after assembly. (Yes the roller thrust washer is missing in the picture. It was added before the gear was installed):
    [​IMG]

    With the intermediate shaft in place it was time to go back to the rear output housing. Permatex form-a-gasket on the outside of the seal:
    [​IMG]

    Seal driven home. I was going to do double seals, but the seals I have are too thick for that. Single seal it is. My yoke is in good shape, so I should be fine. I need to remember to grease this before I put the yoke on:
    [​IMG]

    The parking brake lever needs to go on before the backing plate:
    [​IMG]

    My speedometer gear retainer has some messed up threads so I went at them with a jeweler's file until the cable screwed on smoothly:
    [​IMG]

    Added some oil to the driven speedometer gear bearing surfaces:
    [​IMG]

    And some ARP thread sealer to the threads:
    [​IMG]

    Done. It's geared for the 4.88s the Jeep will be getting in the future but will be off with the 3.73s in the near term:
    [​IMG]

    The parking brake actuator rod is a royal pain to hook with only two hands:
    [​IMG]

    Sprayed the shims with gasket sealer:
    [​IMG]

    Used thread sealer on the bolts since the holes are all open to the inside of the case:
    [​IMG]

    Bolted together and torqued:
    [​IMG]

    Re-checked the end-play. I pulled out a .002 shim to compensate for the sealer but the end play tightened up 0.002 for a total of 2.5 thousands. Near perfect! It seems like the sealer doesn't add a measurable change if sprayed thin. We'll see how much it changes when I put the yoke on. Hopefully not at all:
    [​IMG]

    Saturday I'll tackle this front stuff:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
    Rubicloak, Jw60, duffer and 13 others like this.

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