any body know what happend?

So ive been having trouble getting the time set on my jeep. Yesterday it was running pretty good but had a small ping to it. Today I retard the timing about 1 degree and test drove it. It was missing real bad, barely made it back home. Put the timing light on it again and couldn't find the timing mark on the balancer. shut jeep off and crawled under it with flashlight to find the mark and there it was plain as day. Restarted the jeep looked for the mark with timing light, and couldnt see it anywhere. out of curiosity, I went to the passenger side and shined the timing light on that side and there was my timing mark. It completely jumped to the other side of the engine. Anyone have any idea as to what could have happend??? and what I should do about it??

 

Are you sure you were using the plug wire for #1??

Otherwise, sounds like a timing chain jumping on the sprocket.

 

x2

 

I'll double check tomorrow, pretty sure though. So that means new timing chain?

 

The inductive pick up could be grabbing the wrong wire. If your Nr1 plug wire is weak and wire next to the pick up is stronger then it will feed across.

 

mine did that a few times. was stumped on how it did it, then I found the distributor hold down clamp was loose. after I tightened it up, it stopped.

 

I had the same problem once. I changed the timing, forgot to tighten the holdown. The distributor walked around.

 

check it today, bolts not loose and can turn dis both directions untill engine starts to die and timing mark never show up. If I change the timing chain, when I bring it to tdc before I disasemble, will the timing marks be lined up on the sprockets when I pull the cover off. If not, what do I do to get them lined up right.?

 

Still doesn't add up to me. Even if the chain jumped several teeth the engine should run better when the timing is near the normal setting. Your power curve would just be in the very low or high RPM range.

I have seen the outer ring on the dampener slip, I would check that before tearing into the motor. Pull the #1 plug and bring the piston to the top and the marks will be near zero or 180 (on the opposite side from the timing mark). If the mark is not even close you need a new dampener.

 

The mark on the balancer always lines up with the timing tab when number 1 is at top dead center. Had them slip, too. Tracy.

 

ok, thanks. Ill check that out in a few minutes.

 

I brought the #1 to TDC today and my timing mark was on 0 and the rotor was pointing to the #1 plug wire, so thats good. tearing everything down now to change out the timing chain. Have to go get a puller for the balancer today and we'll see how loose the chain is. Thanks for the help and I will keep you posted.

 

I am confused.... if your timing mark lines up at 0 and your rotor is pointing toward the #1 plug, why would you think the timing chain is bad? I would rather think that the timing light is firing off the wrong plug....

Don't know why, but I don't think your mechanical timing is the problem....

 

I double checked to make sure I had the light hooked up to #1 plug wire and it was.
Ive been told it could be a worn lobe on the cam. timing chain jumped teeth on the gear,(which there is some timing chain chatter) to the timing light firing off wrong plug. I don't know what to do.. I have it tore down to the harmonic balancer, should I go ahead and pull the balancer and timing cover to see how much play is in the chain, or is there another way to tell without pulling the balancer. One more thing,, I do not see any kind of center bolt on the balancer, I dont know whats holding it on there, I have read there should be a center bolt on it. theres just an indention in the center, no bolt no threads. It is a 65-sbc if that matters

 

I really think your problem is going to be in the timing light or distributor (maybe the points plate moved) but if you really want to pull the timing cover, at least go get a good double roller timing chain set and replace the old one since you are there already.

Just to be sure you are timing it correctly, use this link for a good description/explanation. http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala/how_to/firing_order.shtml

BTW-The timing mark is always on zero at #1 TDC. My brain went on vacation for a moment, I must have been thinking about cam timing (or beer time). The distributor only lines up with #1 every other revolution.

 

It wasn't very apparent what motor you were working on until you mention the 65 sbc!!! I had a similat problem in my 88 pickup about 10 years back. Not sure what distributor you are using, but I had an Accel electronic pickup unit in that truck. I would set the timing and everything would be fine and then go for a test run, and it would be running like crap with the timing way off when I got back. Checked everything I could think of and finally took the distributor appart and found the upper spring plate was a bit loose on the shaft-when the mechanical advance went to a certain point, the plates would hang up so it could not return. A Summit HEI unit took care of the problem. I would certainly pull the distributor and check it before tearing into the motor. A sbc can have a very loose chain and still run ok-unless it has one of the plastic teeth timing sets-in which case you may indeed be pulling the cover (and pan, if it still has the stock 1 piece cover).

 

you can check the timing chain slop by shucking the crank back and forth until the rockers start to move. Im not sure but i think the spec is something like 5 degrees.

 

Ive decided to put the water pump and pulleys back on and not take the timing cover off. I found out that apparently the late 60's and earlier chevy engines didn't have a center bolt holding the balancer on. Apparently it was just a press on fit, so if I take it off I don't know how I would get it back on. don't know how you could use a balancer install tool on it. I will put it all back together and look into a better timing light, the one I have is from harbor freight for 17.99 and seems very cheap. you have to pull the trigger 2,3 times to get it going, and I will look into the distributer. If I change from the points to electronic ignition do you think that will fix the problem??

 

Only if it IS the distributor. One usually gets a little better spark out of an electronic, but the real advantage is a whole lot less maintenance. Used Chevy distributors are a dime a dozen-might just put another one in and see what happens.

 

I could try that. I think the distributor in it is from a 74 truck. I bought it last winter and at the time I didn't know what year the engine was. I took the old one in and the guy matched it up the best he could. So if I get one for a 65 then at least I'll know its for the right year.. What would make the timing light fire off of another plug wire than the number 1. I checked and double checked that I have it hooked up to #1.
Maybe its just a cheap light. I don't understand though how the timing marks could be on the timing tag, and after a test drive it moves to the other side of the engine.
I am at a loss here guys. what would your next move be??? money is tight right now so please be gentle...