Yep, Bought A '68 Cj5(project)

I forgot to ask what type of epoxy coating that the blasting shop used, but it's really tough and thick~ a good base for sure

 

I have been searching for that valve cover breather FOREVER and the grommet. I see the darned thing in pictures when googling, but never for sale, or ebay, probably no wonder the fella sold it. I may start looking at alternative air cleaners~ would like something which look factory



This is mine, haven't done anything with it yet~ a ways off from starting the engine~ I'm in no hurry you know this is an older picture

 

just putting this here so I don't lose it.

( Early Type ) V6 Oil Bath To Paper Element Air Cleaner Conversion

 

did you contact Sam from Parts Dude out of Carson City, NV? I'm sure I gave him those parts. Might even of gave him a paper element air cleaner as well. Also Try J&W Auto Wreckers out of Antelope, CA. High priced but.........

 

Well, no I haven't really contacted anyone, I was waiting on you I'll give em a call Monday edit: just sent Sam an email

 

For small holes, I back the hole with a piece of aluminum or Copper and draw a quick circle with the mig. The weld doesn't stick to the backer, but the backer gives it a nice flat surface to form on.

 

Gawd, don't wait for me you, and everyone else, might be long gone by then

 

Here's several products for magnetic copper backers:

• 4 inch Magnetic Copper Welding Backer
• Amazon.com: Durston Manufacturing Co MPWT Magnetic Plug Weld Tool: Automotive
• AGK320, Strong Hand Hole Plug Magnet

They are also useful for welding the plugs on larger holes. I have the Eastwood one and it works well.

 

This guy has helped me on a couple things. His coat hanger for Filling holes is great.



His technique for but welding is even better.

 

funny, I don't even know if I have a metal coat hanger, but I do have a bunch of Tig rods, I'm going to try the weld the little disc to the Tig rod today. Fireball I ordered one of those brass backing tools!
You guys are great!

So far so good, I was thinking to re-locate the tail light which is the lower hole, the upper hole is for the backup lights. But I think I'll leave well enough alone.




Guess I'll play with this gas tank hole later too , oh yeah, lets put a gapping hole here for the new gas tank

 

When you finish, are you going back for that flatty in the upper left of the photo?

 

Good thing there's no routine safety inspection in NM. I would expect the filler in the passenger space to be a violation.

If you use the Jeep filler location, your backup lights will be in the way.


(from my archive)

Mike Boyink put a '77-up CJ tank in his Jeep, and sent the filler to the outside face of the right rear corner. The hoses for that tank are smaller diameter and flexible, allowing you to move the filler around.

 

As I understand, the seller kept that one As for everything else that he had, a person came down with a large trailer and bought everything he had~ he was happy

 

Oh no no no, I'm just going with the stock seat underneath the drivers seat. I will be going back with those stock lights, hopefully they make them in LED

 

That'll work.

 

I gave the bed repair my best shot~ I cut it a little small and had to spend quality time filling in the gaps, but did used some flattened copper tubing which helped. I used my Harbor freight bender thing to make the ridges. It bend 18 gauge easily, but won't cut it, just good up to 20 gauge.

Obviously I made a square hole (is that right?) with my cut-off wheel~ easy, well heck, making the piece was "easy", fitting was a pain





a little epoxy, filler, paint, carpet or bed liner, no one will ever know


Mine is not nearly this new looking, and after having sat in Harvey flood waters for 2 weeks, then in storage forever, the darned thing still works just fine It weighs in a 300lbs so I've been told.

 

Man.....pull that Willys out and work on a true legendary Willys Jeep.

 

But Jim, I don't own that one~ maybe the next go around

In the meantime, I need some advice on this rusty holy panel beneath the passenger seat, you know the "secret" box?




I could probably fabricate that part or patch it(the part of the floor panel support) and I guess I could remove part of the floor panel support to replace the most of the bad floor?

 

This is pretty darn typical damage. You patched the hole in the bed, so you should be able to replace the floor below the tool box. It's flat steel, so cut out the swiss-cheese part and replace it. The hat channels are available pre-formed from Classic Enterprises, if you want the original look. Others have made work-alike replacements with rectangular steel tubing. The wood inside the channel is original Jeep, and can't be helpful with the rust. The wood was added to keep the hat channels from crushing due to the pressure of the body bolts. You could substitute something that would retain water less, I'd think.

 

Go buy the Willys clean it up and name it.....Chilly Willy

X2----Classic Enterprises
Since the area has been sand blasted and now has no rust just place an over lay on top. Do use a sealant in-between. Take a look a KBS products. Nice stuff.