Well...I got the tranny from Herm...

And for the life of me, I can't get the input shaft to turn...I called Herm earlier today & he told me it was probably just tight & to pry on the synchros with a screw driver & carefully tap them with a hammer...I finally got the main shaft to turn, but it's a no go on the input...I don't think the input bearing is bound, because I can turn the input shaft back & forth just a hair & the input gear turns a like amount. I went ahead & mounted the transfer case in the hopes that I could get a little better "easy leverage" to turn it, but I'm hesitant to try putting much force to it...any suggestions?

 

Sounds like it dropped a needle bearing between the input and main shaft. I ordered a new tranny a while back and when I got it it did exactly the same thing. Took it to a tranny shop and they were able to fish it out and put it back where it belongs. I wouldn't force it - if thats the problem you'll damage the dropped needle.

 

Is this a T-90? If so The felt seal on the input shaft can cause binding between the front bearing retainer and shaft. Especially if not soaked in oil before installation. I usually split them to reduce the binding as the aftermarket seals are usually way too thick.
I always check the ones I build for binding before they get delivered or go on the shelf. Carefully take a pair of pliers and try and turn the input shaft. Wrap the jaws with tape so you don't damage the splines. If you still can't turn it, and the blocking rings are not stuck to the gears, then something is wrong. I'd also gently take a screwdriver or similar and make sure the blocking rings are free from the cone in the gear. I've also found when the transfercase input gear is installed and torqued it pulls the output (mainshaft) back and sets the clearances. Before this sometimes the shaft moves forward and causes the blocking rings to get snug on the gears and can cause them to stick, in effect locking the transmission in gear.


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I've been reading on & off about the process of rebuilding the T90 (T86 case) because I picked up a spare with the intention of rebuilding it when I have the time & extra cash...to think I've spent about $800 & quite a few hours on a transmission with issues, makes me wanna puke...

ETA: Doesn't he check for function before he ships them out???

 

Well, that isn't working either...lesson learned...

 

When installing the main shaft, the pilot bearings can slide and move vertical in the end of the input shaft causing tranny lock-up.

 

Is this a T90 or ???
Did you already bolt this transmission onto the transfer case ?
If so that's likely the problem.
The reverse / countershaft lock plate must fit into the recess area area on the T-18.

 

That has to happen on the T-90 and T-86 also. That shouldn't cause the transmission to lock up though.

To the op, I'd contact Herm again. This shouldn't be happening and be should make it right.


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Are there any other members in your area or do you have any local Jeep friends? Most times these things just need a second set of eyes to notice what is going on. It is most likely something that you are overlooking- I know that doesn't help lower the frustration though.

 

I just talked to him today about putting the T90 guts into my T86 case. I have not seen any bad reviews on him??? I will be following this'

 

That's what I ment by "dropped a needle bearing" above. Exactly what what happened with my new one. The output shaft was wired in place but judging by the beating the box took it looked like it got jostled around enough in transit to shake it loose. tranny shop charged like $40 to fish it out - they were able to do it without tearing it all apart. I'd about bet money that's your issue.

 

I'll be giving him a call as soon as my new gaskets get here & I get the transmission/transfer case married back together. When I went to take off the transfer case, there was a muffled "pop" & I had to stick a chunk of wood in the gears to keep them from spinning when untorquing the output, but it was really tight. As soon as I unbolted the case, everything started spinning pretty free with the exception of one spot which I think may be on one of the gears...once I got the cases split apart, it was obvious what the problem was...mehh the locking plate wasn't trimmed so it would fit...it was covering about two thirds of the flange on the rear retaining bearing....I don't think there's an easy way to fix this other than getting my dremel out & trimming the excess away.

ETA: This is gonna be tedious...

 

Well, if you do, make sure he includes his specially made pilot bushing... I took off work today because I THOUGHT I had all my issues resolved...
I have the transfer case & overdrive bolted on to the new transmission & figured by the end of the day, I'd be doing a test drive around the block. It's just a good thing that I decided to test fit the new pilot bushing before putting it & the new clutch in....guess what? It doesn't fit...The end of my old input shaft measures .588 & the new pilot bushing I bought at the parts store measures .590...The end of the shaft on my NEW transmission measures .625 ...

 

Tom,
Bring it over tomorrow and I'll chuck it up in the lathe.

Don

 

I suggest that you should take a punch and drive back the countershaft just enough to loosen the lock plate.
The reverse idler shaft really needs to be driven back too but its much harder to access that shaft with a punch.

 

Thanks for the offer Don...What time would be good? I usually get up by 4 a.m. but can get up earlier if need be... I'll bring you some seats.

 

Thanks OT...Right now I'm trying to think ahead & eyeballing the transmission as to what problems might possibly pop up when I get to the point of actually sticking it in...I put the new clutch disc on just to make sure I'm not gonna be spinning my wheels any further..it fits...I even went so far as to measure the length of the input shaft...when I talked to Herm I asked him about the clutch alignment tool with the larger hole in the pilot & he suggested I just go by feel. mehh

I might just wrap a couple loops of tape around it to get it "closer"...

 

Go a different direction...maybe 4 speed....it'll probably be cheaper & quicker...if you're set on Herms unit, I'll sell you mine...& I'll guarantee the bearings will fit& it'll slap together...same price as he charges...

 

I'm so ****ed, I could eat horseshoes & spit nails..............