F134 won't idle/revs high

Here's a little information to get you up to speed on my problem.

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?108113-CJ5-Won-t-stay-running

So I rebuilt the carburetor, reinstalled it with no change in conditions (it needed it anyway). Pretty straightforward on the rebuild. So I started checking electrical and put in a new coil and plugs. Checked for spark, had that but seemed week. So as a last chance I switched out a condenser from one of my old 6 volt Chevy engines (the Jeep is 12v). So I cranked it and it sputtered as usual. Gave it some choke and it took off at full speed even with the idle mixture screw set at about a turn out. Immediately shut it off and checked to make sure the throttle linkages were set ok. yep. Tried it three more times with the same racing result.

Searched a little bit on the site for this scenario, couldn't come up with any results. So would built up fuel from previous cranks cause this or did I miss something in the rebuild? or can you not use a 6 volt condenser, seems unlikely?

 

I suggest you check for a vacuum leak at the carb base.

Or, excessive timing advance.

 

Did you ever get some clean , NEW, Fuel in there? and a filter?

Check all your grounds..........from the battery to the Ignition. You can always run a jumper over there with a piece of 16 gu. wire and two alligator clips.

Weak spark? I think you have changed most of this: Points , condenser, coil and wires.

Engine racing? Vacuum leak would be my first guess........choke linkage may be hung up or improperly reassembled holding the butterfly open at the carb.

 

"choke linkage may be hung up or improperly reassembled holding the butterfly open at the carb."

x2. Check the fast-idle link adjustment and choke cable slack.

 

I'll check the throttle/choke linkages. It's been raining so I didn't look into it but something does seem too lose in the linkages. As for the fuel system...fresh with new filters, pressure as well. Electronics...mostly new and gone through twice. Timed per manual at 5d before TDC with points just breaking. I did use the new base gasket with the 4 "troughs" ebbing out from the center. Old one was just a plain circle. I'll check back when it quits raining and have time to mess with it again.

 

So the last item to get it running right was just a little throttle cable adjustment. Apparently the old "kink" in the throttle wire is not the "new" setting for the clamp.

Guess it was the condenser all along. The replacement one failed and I had to rely on an old, ancient one.

On a side note, is the spring loaded needle better for rough riding?

Thanks for all that helped me figure it out.

 

"On a side note, is the spring loaded needle better for rough riding?"

That is the idea. Note that different needles have different float height settings.