F134 stalling problem?

Mine no longer has a rough idle at 650-700 rpm since I bushed the throttle shaft. The only reason I have it set at 800 rpm is because the generator will not charge lower than that.

 

For me, having the generator or alternator charge at idle would be a higher priority than having a really low idle speed.

 

Scoutpilot, it's good that you joined up here, hopefully you can help as many here as you have done on the CJ2A page.
I have a 1937 Field Artillery, Elementery Auto Instruction manual, Book 120. pages 59 to 81 deal with carbs. I was impressed by how much tech went into them even back in the 30's.

 

It just accrued to me the rebuild kit I used might have the wrong needle and seat. Which would cause the flooding issue.

 

The rebuild kit I used was Hygrade 1611. Going by the exploited view in my shop manual there is supposed be a spring behind the needle valve. And the float needle height should be set to 5/16. The old needle valve that was in the carb before the rebuild didn't have a spring either. I just did a search on here and google and found that all the carter yf jeep carbs have this spring built into the needle. Looks like I'm going to have to find a spring loaded float needle and seat set.

 

You are right. Seems I post on this about once a month, but somehow missed doing so in this thread.

You can check the links in #19 here. http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?111450-Need-some-ignition-help-please/page2

 

I found this in a search

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/show...needle-question&highlight=needle+valve+spring

 

I found a spring loaded float needle and seat like the one in this write up.

http://thisoldjeep.fr.yuku.com/topic/915/Carter-YF-938SD-Rebuild#.VGkoHvnF-Yc

But it has a orifice size of .091 will I need a fuel pressure regulator?

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-YF-Carburetor-Needle-Seat_p_566.html

 

It may depend on your usage. My general sense is that the OEM Jeep specs for YF parts are primarily intended to relieve flooding on rough terrain and/or steep slopes.

There is also an old-time school of thought that a fuel pressure regulator can't hurt and may help.

 

I do use it offroad a lot but I also drive it on the road a lot road also. Where could I find the spring loaded needle with a .076 orifice?

 

I put a pressure regulator on and my flooding problems are cured,for some reason after I rebuilt my fuel pump the carb would flood,tried everything (rebuild,replaced needle valve etc.)and the only thing that helped was the regulator and it was only about $25 at NAPA,hope this helps.

 

Ok thanks I have also found that there are spacers between the fuel pump and the block that are used to reduce fuel pressure. And that all jeeps came with from the factory. I'm using a AC 572 single action fuel pump would I need one?

 

Yes. You will need a spacer.

 

I went to Daytona Parts (Carb specialists) and got a kit and one of their Datona float valves. It is not conical but flat on the end. Adhusted the float level and it is fine. I think it was high fuel pressure the original float valve was not handling.

 

Well I readjusted the float and installed the spacer between the fuel pump and the block and it is still stalling when coming to a stop. I'm ready to just give up and buy a reman carburetor this has been going on since May.

 

​check idle rpm at 700.

 

I'm going to put a fuel pressure regulator on it try that.

 

Following up on Pete's comment about suspect the newest stuff first ... Did your problem start soon after doing the Pertronix conversion? I had a really frustrating problem after I made a few changes, most noticeable symptom was a tremendous backfire, dirty plugs on the passenger side. My 1967 CJ has a Holley carb, so maybe my symptoms were different that yours, but the consensus seemed to be some kind of issue with the carb. I got a lot of helpful suggestions on this site and finally found the following nugget:

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showt...ertronix-dwell

It turns out that Pertronix either made a batch of the electronic ignition modules wrong by putting a notch on the opposite side of the magnetic ring from where it was supposed to be, or they printed their instructions wrong. If you remember from when you installed yours, there is a little notch cutout on the outside of the magnetic ring near one of the studs. The instructions say to insert that stud in the hole near the square cut out in the distributor's advance weight mechanism. THAT WAS WRONG. The very simple fix was to rotate the magnetic ring 180*. It took about ten minutes and completely eliminated my problems. Been running great every since!

(I've got the dauntless V6. I don't know if this is true for the pertronics for your distributor.)

 

Yesterday my YF equipped CJ5 had a fit of richness. Had done this before. I had reboult the carb, installed a Daytona Parts float needle, Complete ignition rebuild, copper plug wires. It was running good until yesterday. Yesterday it wouldn't idle. RPM was cycling up and down about 300. Had to set the idle really fast to get it to run. Came down a steep hill and it was popping and banging in the exhaust. Finally it straightened itself out and was purring like a kitten. Spent some quality time with Tim at Daytona Parts who specialize in rebuilding vintage carbs (386 427 7108). About half an hour of instruction on the YF. He said it was probably a piece of debris fowling the float valve. If you pull the air cleaner and look down the carb throat while it is misbehaving you chould not see any liquid fuel around the venturi in the throat. Any liquid fuel means the float valve is not controlling the flow. Tim says that the highest fuel pressure occurs at idle, as off idle the engine is using the fuel . Manual says fuel pressure should not exceed 4.5#. I also don't have a fuel filter installed. Plan on checking the fuel pressure and installing a filter today.