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Cork gasket sealer

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Rick Whitson, Mar 21, 2015.

  1. Mar 24, 2015
    commanlerwrangdo

    commanlerwrangdo Member

    Cleveland, Ohio
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2014
    Messages:
    470
    :iagree: Clean surface and proper torque-down are what I've used for years building engines. Sometimes with sealant, sometimes without.

    :iagree: Yep. No one wants to spend the 5 minutes to read the directions. I have yet to see a sealant that permits starting the engine as soon as the valve cover gasket job is done. Case(s) in point: Any early sbc valve cover(s). Gotta have straight edges on the cover, clean head where the gasket will sit and proper torque. Sealant? Done these every way they could be done. My preferred method is to use the Ultra Grey Permatex on the valve cover side only after the cover is flat, straight and clean. I apply a very thin layer to one side of the gasket with my finger. Then I set the gaskets into the covers, seat the gaskets, align the bolt holes and set them aside on the gaskets. After a few hours I'll push down on the covers gently and then weigh them down with something like a shop manual. I let them dry 24 full hours at minimum. Install to engine at around 85 inch pounds or so and done.:smash:

    IF they have to come off later for a valve/rocker/pushrod issue, it's as easy as the access to the covers is. Off and on shouldn't be any issue as the cover and gasket remain as a unit. Neat and clean. A little brake cleaner on a rag and then wipe the cork off so the oil is removed before popping the covers back on, again at the correct torque. 8)

    Don't get me started on how much I use an air file to fix fubar gasket sealing surfaces!chainsawguy
     
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