How to install Rear rope seal...

I can't seem to get the rear rope seal in the slots without it seizing on the way down. I tried putting a little oil on 1 side, both sides. placing them in the holes and starting with the bearing cap.

I am lost... Can you guys help please?

Thanks

Rich

 

Not totally clear from your description, but maybe you need a Sneaky Pete. (No relation. )

 

http://www.amazon.com/Sneaky-Pete-S...d=1446378438&sr=8-1&keywords=sneaky+pete+tool

 

I'm talking about the pieces on the sides of the rear main cap. Not the rear circular seal. I placed the rubber rope into the groove in the block and to the cavity at the mount surface. When I attempt to install the cap the rope binds the cap and I can't bolt it down.

 

I'm not real sure how a sneaky pete would help. Isn't it used on the circular type rope seals like on the rear? I purchased a neoprene rear circular seal.

 

What kind of engine are you working on? Sig lines don't show up on many remote devices like phones so you cannot rely on that to convey information.

 

Talking about F-head? The side packings
are installed after the cap.
They are meant to squish 1/4 inch ("do not trim") according to the FSM.

 

Yep f134. How do I get them to slide in? They seem to bindicate in the bores.

Thanks

Rich

 

Well, I'm confused by you calling them rope seals. In my memory they were solid rubber cylindrical plugs. They are simplybinserted from the bottom, and will protrude about 1/4 inch, until the oil pan crushes them in.

A FSM would be a good thing to have.

 

"bindicated?"

"binserted?"

Whoever invented Auto-Edit... duck you!

 

Correct. The rubber cylinder seals. The clearance is so tight I can't get them to go in. On tear down the seals were a rope type material. Almost looked like leather? The only thing close i recall from years gone by is the old rope seals I installed in Buick V8s years ago.

I'm to the point of taking it to a machine shop. It seems when I torque the crank it becomes very stiff to turn with the rear neoprene circular seal in place.

Rich

 

I found the problem with the dowels. When I was going through the parts from the machine shop I found a pair of the correct dowels. The dowels in my gasket kit from Walck's were ~1/8" larger in diameter and much stiffer.

Any suggestions on where to get the correct ones? As I only need the dowels and not the seal as well.

2 of the 4 exhaust tappets drop all the way through the bores. The intakes aren't an issue either. The exhaust ones on 1 and 4 drop about half way which doesn't allow me to install the cam.

How difficult should it be to turn the crank with the mains torqued? Are we talking by hand on the counterweights or ratchet on the crank?

Thanks