Tie Rod Removal

GAAAA!! Can't get the dang tie rod to pop out of the bellcrank. Can't really get good swinging room for a BFH or to use a puller. Is there a special tool that can do this?

In an archived thread I read a technique that I can't figure out:
(by John Shows)

Hmmm, still can't picture it. Can anyone explain it better? Any other idears? Thanks!

 

Yea, a pickle fork or tie rod seperator.


Makes it almost effortless.

 

Think of it in terms of bodywork. hammer on dolly, or in this case, hammer on hammer with the tierod in the middle.
not sure if this helps or not, but I hope so.

 

Ok, great. So how do you use it? Whack it or pry it?

m38willys: So you whack on the other end of the tie rod? Is that with the outer tie rod installed or not? I've got the outer tie rod off, so I could whack it. But would I have to reinstall the draglink to keep the bellcrank from spinning? (scratching head) Still don't get it. It'd help if I knew body work, lol. Thanks tho!

 

No...picture hitting the end of an 8 lb hammer with a smaller hammer. Now sandwich the bellcrank end in between them.

Hit the side of the bellcrank. What happens is the bell crank hole is tapered. When you hit it it's like squeezing the hole and forcing the tie rod end out of the hole.

It works...and it's easy.

I'm no mechanic but my brother taught me this and it was a piece of cake....about 3 solid licks and it just fell out.

 

Ok that helped John. It sounds like a great idea I just couldn't picture it. R) Going outside to try it here in a few. Thanks!!

 

Good let me know how it works.

 

Well the 2 hammer trick didn't work. Too awkward. Went to FLAPS and bought the tool. Mike: $9 was a bit optimistic. Prolly didn't go to the right place. But hey it worked...a few whacks with a BFH and it pooped off!

 

Sorry Alan...

 

Dat's ok, it's a cool idea. Prolly would have been better if'n I'd kept the draglink on.

BTW, what officially constitutes a "worn" TRE?

Also, I can't seem to free up a couple of the TREs from their tube. I've heated & iced it, and B'Laster PB'ed it and it still won't budge. The most difficult part is gripping the tube tight enough to keep it from spinning as I wrench on the TRE. I don't want to put the tube in a vice and crimp it. Any tips for keeping it gripped tight?

 

Hmmm, neat idea. Lisle...isn't that where mruta lives?

 

Danggg! I got the tie rod out using the pickle fork, but now I have another biggie problem. The driver's side knuckle hole is a tad bit too big. Upon installation of the TRE, the castle nut has run the entire length down the threads and it's not tight in the hole at all. I'm guessing that all the recent "death wobble" contributed to the wallering-out of the hole?

Now what? Seems like there should be an easy fix, like wrapping the tapered part of the TRE with a strip of masking tape or something to help fill up the knuckle hole. Any tips?

 

Have the hole brazed and re-reamed to fit the tie rod or posibbly somebody makes a sleeve to fit in there. Do not put tape or a shim in there as that will olny cause something to break worse or hurt you!!!

 

Thanks Mike.

I do have that spare knuckle that you drilled--I ended up not using it on the '71 because it was the wrong size or something. The TRE hole on that one is tight. I might try to secure 4 of those studs and press 'em in & swap out the knuckle. Prob is that it took a week for those dang studs to come into the local Chrysler dealer.