On The Road Again

OK got everything put back together. Didn't have the socket required to tighten the big honking nut so I put them back in the same way I took them out...with a screwdriver and hammer tapping on the corners of the nuts. Just tightened it till I felt like it was as tight as it was when I pulled it off.

The washers BTW that were supposed to have that tab to bend over did not have the tab to bend over...does it matter?

OK...bled the brakes and went for a test drive. Now it's not pulling to the drivers side any more. It's pulling to the pass side, but not really all that bad. Well,...pretty bad if I slam on the brakes, but just a normal brake application...not that bad.

Drove about 4 miles last night testing and retesting....backing up and braking and pulling forward and braking...stopping every 1/2 mile to do it again.

Back in the garage...pulled the pass side front and adjusted the brake adjustment screw till I felt the resistance from the pads then backed off till it was easy. The drum on the pass side was hot....hotter than the drivers side.

Went for another test drive...same thing...pulling to the right or pass side.

Drove to work today in the jeep and all was fine...still pulling to the right. Got out and looked under jeep and at wheels to check for leaks...no leaks, but...the pass side drum is smoking a bit. Is that just the new drum getting broke in?

Do I need to maybe adjust the drivers side out some? Maybe another bleeding?

One point...the drivers side shoes got pretty greasy in the re-install. Just couldn't keep it off the shoes since my hands were so greasy.

Oh...the bearing packer worked great...probably not any less greasy, but I could be for sure that new grease was being packed all throughout the bearings. Actually I could tell a difference just in the weight of the bearing packed full of grease.

 

How do you clean brake shoes?

 

I ALWAYS keep at least two cans of brake cleaner and two cans of carb cleaner in the shop. I find that I'm constantly reaching for them to clean the grease off of something. That and PB Blaster are essentials!
Megan

 

John this is a necessity in my book, the washers are round and about .040 thick with a small hook in the middle that goes in the slot on the spindle, hook part faces toward the bearing, simply take a screwdriver and insert it behind the washer (as best as you can) and bend one side of the outer washer over flat against the nut, that will keep the nut from coming loose, similar to a cotter pin.

 

That's a perfect description of mine except the tab is just flat...I guess I need to take a screwdriver and bend it back.

If I get this socket and use it how tight should I tighten the nuts?

 

That's what I had heard so thanks.

I feel alot better about it...the adjustment shouldn't be too hard since I've already gone through the difficult/confusing/unknown stuff.

Oh...add brake mechanic to the list.

And thanks fellas for the help and support.

 

Bending the washer over the outer nut is sometimes pretty hard to do (for me anyway). What I did Sunday was put the outer nut on, make a line on the washer with a marker, take out the nut and washer, put washer in vise, hammer washer over just to get the bend started in the right spot. Once it's back together it's much easier to bend it over with screwdriver or prybar. Note, don't crush the hub by prying too hard on it!