Power lock: junk or not

I think I'd build with the 1969 cases.
Trim the defect off if it makes you happy but I would not worry about the "ear" flying off.
That will never happen unless something solid is floating around in the gear lube or something else breaks inside the carrier first.
Use the original bolts and you don't need a longer bolt.

Normally one never swaps case halves from one unit to another because the halves are machined together BUT....
In this instance it may be desireable to try it out.
The usual reason is that the 8 case bolts may not smoothly fit into the bores.
If the mix match case halves bolt together without bolt binding then you can proceed to test the lateral runout of the case.
If ring gear run out can be held to tolerance then a mix match of case halves could be both acceptable and desireable.

Regardless of case halves used ...
After it is all re-assembled you will need to install the ring gear.
Before setting up the ring/pinion the ring gear need be tested for lateral "RUN OUT".
Run out must be .006" or less.
Note that the ring can be bolted to the case in 8 different positions.
Try all 8 positions to yeild the least amount of ring gear run out.

 

The Dana 44 units were marked with Auto or STD but I've never seen a 30, 27, or 25 so marked. Doesn't mean there aren't some out there but I've torn apart a LOT of Pow R Lock's. I'd love to see one marked that way though. I wish they all were.

If the bearing journal on the case that had the axle breakage is ok (did not swell) and the inside where the clutches ride is ok I'd use that one first vs. chancing a bolt coming loose. I've seen that happen and it's catastrophic as you can imagine. Make sure red threadlocker is used on the bolts and the bolts and holes are thoroughly cleaned and dried.

 

The insides of the first case (not the one with the gouge at the bolt hole), cleaned up.

First, the non ring gear side. Only possible issue I, the untrained eye, see is the burrs in the slots where the clutch packs reside. Should be able to clean them up. Similar burrs are evident on both case halves. Not sure about the discoloration on the flat area inside, where the packs main surface area makes contact. Looks good to me. Maybe a little scotch write work or something. No gouging or bad scratches.

And the ring gear side. Much the same as the other side, in general except the damage from the broken axle.

I will make some attempt at measuring the bearing journal. It will be crude by professional standards. I'll just compare measurements from each journal, as best I can.

 

Don't need to worry about the condition of the flat area shown inside the case halves.
The first clutch plate that goes up against the case is always a dead plate.
"Dead plates" have 4 tabs or ears and they do not spin within the case.

You might be right about that. I have several types setting on the work bench.
I'll take a look and see if any besides the D-44's units are marked.
I've never owned a D-27 unit but do have a couple D 25's and three of the D-30 units.

Dave, Curious .... Did you try mix matching the case halves to see if the bolt holes line up smoothly ?

 

No, Ken. I did not. The issues each one seems to have are both on the ring gear half of the case. Because of this, I see no potential benefit to mixing them. If there was one very good ring gear side and only one very good other side, then I might give it a whirl.

Insides pictured above look good to you?

 

Yeah I took a close up and it all looks pretty good except for the obvious flaw.
It does not look like the inside diameter of the journal was enlarged any.
I think the ramps usually receive the most wear and that's seldom a problem.

 

I usually find the slots where the clutch tabs ride wear. Pay close attention there. If worn (you mentioned burrs) make sure there is a smooth transition to make sure the clutch tabs can move freely in the slots. A little work carefully with a dremel and stone bit can help here if needed.

 

Update: I'm going to use the gouged case. It's my best option at this point, short of buying ANOTHER unit or, case, at least. So, I super cleaned it today. A 3rd trip to the kerosene tank followed by 1 1/2 cans of brake cleaner, paying close attention to the threaded bolt holes. I used a thin bottle type brush inside of them, trying to make sure I got them clean.

I will next clean up any burrs on the slots for the clutch tabs and carefully file flat any deformities at the ring gear mounting surface.

Speaking of the ring gear; are new ring gear bolts a must?

New clutches, carrier bearings and king pin shims should be here this week.

Sorry I'm so slow and dragging this out sooooooo long.

 

Technically they are supposed to be replaced BUT if they are in good shape with NO deformation they can be reused. Make sure red thread locker is used so they don't come loose. Same rules apply, threads completely clean and dry.

 

So, on the porch this afternoon, I found a box containing a master rebuild kit for a Dana 44 to go along with the rebuild parts I got for my dana 27 several weeks ago. I didn't open the box of 27 parts until today. A little disappointed. A mix of bearing brands and Chinese carrier bearings. I was expecting Japanese stuff, for the price and not Timken, for sure. But not Chinese. The Dana 44 kit from Randys has all Timken bearings.

So, I guess I'll use the Chinese carrier bearings for set up bearings and will shop eBay for some Timken replacements. The good news is that the Power Lock parts seem okay, to the untrained eye. So, I got that going' for me. Time will tell on this, though.

So, here are the bearing numbers I have for Dana 27 work.

Carrier bearings LM 501349
race LM 501311

The large pinion bearing is a Bower, made in USA with a Timken race ( HM88649 bearing and HM88610, respectively). I guess I'll use these.

The small pinion bearings are in Bower/Federal Mogul boxes but made in Japan. M86647 bearing and M86610 race. I guess I'll use these also.

So, I'm thinking I just need to replace the carrier bearings and races. What say ye' professional gear guys?

Gotta get myself healed up and back in action so I can get this stuff to the guy who will being the set up work so I can be ready for June.

Oh....and the new ring gear bolts I got for both axles........the heads are real thin. The ones that came out of the 27 were sort of thin.......thinner than a normal hex head bolt but, these are like real thin. From Randy's. What's up with that?

 

Found and ordered some Timken bearings and races from epay. I noticed some of the Timkens say "Made in USA" and some just say "USA." I ordered the stuff that says "Made In USA."

Is there any issue with mixing brands between the race and the bearing? I don't really see where it would be an issue since everything is new. Besides the mixed parts that came in the one box, I will/might be mixing brands on my wheel bearings.....Timken bearings and Bower races....all Made in USA.

 

I always try and stay with the same brand for cup and cone. I don't think it should matter, but it might.

 

So, I know that if you're using the power lock clutches with the friction material on them, you need to soak them in friction modifier prior to assembly. I bought the all steel type clutches. Should they be soaked or wiped with anything before assembly or, can they be assembled dry?

 

I am no expert but I assume that since the clutches will be soaked in lubricant during use, making sure there is ample applied during assembly is probably the correct procedure? I know when you get a new one, you need to drive in figure 8s to work the lubricant and modifier into the mechanism.

 

I kinda thought this but I am leery about the chance of contaminating the bolts/threaded holes with oil when the need to stay dry and get lock-tite on them. Guess I just to have to be real careful. I was hoping that the oil in the case would get in there when the diff is filled and that this would be sufficient.

 

Well, it's back together. I'm about 75% satisfied with my work, which is kinda par for the course. As hard as I try and as meticulous as I try to be, it always seems to go this way.

2-3 drops of thread locker on each bolt, not down the threaded holes as I first tried, and tightened the them as you would a wheel on your JEEP. First this bolt, then the one across from it, and so on, until all were snug. Then, torqued down to 45 lb/ft as per FSM. Seems kinda light to me but, that's what the book says so, that's what I done.

Checking clearances between the cross shafts and their ramps is where I'm not real happy. FSM calls for no more than " a few thousandths " between the two and consistenency between all of them. Well, I've got between .003 and, on one side of one of the ramps, .006. Most are at .004 - .005, at least as far as I could get my too wide feeler gauges in. Used parts, lack of experience on my part, etc., etc.

I tried to work everything around to keep it straight as I tightened the bolts down but, it gets to a point where things don't move anymore sooooo.....

Everything will go to the shop tomorrow for ring and pinion set up and new bearings. When I get it back, I'll put the rest of the axle together. Might even have the 11" brake stuff ready to go. The JEEP won't be ready for the Willys Picnic weekend so, I'm backing down a tad.

So, it is what it is. If it blows up, it blows up. I'll try again. It's all about the learning, right? I'm usually pretty easy on the skinny pedal so, maybe it will live. Gotta the front axle all back in and buttoned up then, get the rear axle done. Anxious to give a report on how it all works out. As slow as I am, it may well be August before I get to try it out. I'll let you know how it works.

I appreciate all the help and advice and the parts I got from people here. Couldn't have done it without you guys. Thank you for putting up with me.

 

Dave, I think from my own perspective, 75% satisfactory with the work is pretty good. I generally don't even get that far. I usually try and get things to what the specs are and sometimes it comes close, but a lot of this stuff is OLD. A lot of my stuff is straight up junk, so how perfect can you make it? A polished turd no matter how shiny is still a turd. Look at my stuff! I bet your PowRloK will work excellently. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing it.