Offset Between Rear Axle And Transmission Output

Got some 1/4 or 3/16 scrap plate, cut with angle grinder and replicated the same profile and welded it on. I then drilled holes for the bolts. It isn't pretty, but its strong and I actually forgot about it until I saw your last pic. I honestly thought I was the only person who had this issue and I have never seen it mentioned before.. Clearly I was wrong.

 

Does the frame have bolts welded in? My frame is 3/16" thick, so I drilled holes and tapped them. Thinking this probably won't hold up now. I've been thinking of stretching the crossmember and creating an L so it sort of wraps the outer frame then drilling using thru-bolts to secure the crossmember

 

I made my entire frame out of 2x4 with 3/16 wall tube. 2X4 frame for my CJ2A I welded on some 3/16 angle and used 3/8 grade 5 through bolts to secure it. Its not ever going anywhere.

 

@47v6 I was reading your thread yesterday.

 

Can the holes for the transmission be re-drilled or the mount moved so you don't have to offset the entire cross member?

 

That all depends on how important this transmission mount is; there's no way i would be able to get this lined up. Re-drilling for the two center transmission mount holes is simple.

OMIX-ADA 18608.15 Transmission Mount Bolt Kit for 41-71 Jeep Vehicles with Model Dana 18 Transfer Case

 

I'll have to scrounge for a pic. I'm 1-5/8 off center to the passenger side. I left the cross member in stock location. The " centering " ring for the tcase bushing only has a few tack welds. I removed it, plated over the existing hole and redrilled it closer to passenger side. I did need to use a thinner bushing though.

 

Keep in mind the centerline of the engine/transmission from the factory is one inch offset to the driver side. Verified this measuring from both body and frame on two V6 CJ5's. This may have been to minimize the offset in the rear driveshaft.

 

My engine currently sits 1.25" towards the driver's side. I'm still at about 1-2 inches from my drive shaft to be straight on. It works a lot better if the engine and tranny are cockeyed!!

 

The nature of u-joints necessitates some offset. If they were perfectly aligned the roller bearings would wear quickly, that's what the u-joint manufacturers say anyway. I don't think a u-joint knows if the offset is vertical or horizontal, or both, as long as the offset doesn't exceed it's design parameters.

 

Thought the engine and tranny/tc were offset an inch to the driver's side to provide clearance for the front driveshaft. Am I wrong?