1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Painting Fiberglass Front Clip

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by mnbubba, Apr 13, 2005.

  1. Apr 13, 2005
    mnbubba

    mnbubba New Member

    Duluth, MN
    Joined:
    May 10, 2004
    Messages:
    47
    OK I am almost at the point in this process where I can paint. I am just going to go the rattle can approach because I can't justify spending hundreds of dollars on a trail only rig. So I have a steel tub and a fiberglass front clip (one piece fenders and hood). I am wondering if I need a special primer to lay down first on the fiberglass. I am going with rustoleum rusty metal primer for the tub and I will be finishing it off with a metalic blue rustoleum paint.
     
  2. Apr 13, 2005
    plunkinberry

    plunkinberry Member

    Canonsburg, PA
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2002
    Messages:
    102
    Not as far as I've ever known or heard. I would scuff the surface with a scotch brite pad, but that's it... Good luck, and as always, please provide pictures. ;)
     
  3. Apr 13, 2005
    mnbubba

    mnbubba New Member

    Duluth, MN
    Joined:
    May 10, 2004
    Messages:
    47
    I will snap some pictures and put them up when she is all painted and purdy. Thanks.
     
  4. Apr 13, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    I didn't do anything different on my front clip when I painted it, but recently talked to a Jeeper who painted his all-glass Jeep.

    He mentioned doing something special to deal with the fiberglass, as I guess the 'glass continues to let off vapors/chemicals of some sort as it ages.

    Dunno for sure...my paint job held up well for a at least a dozen years, and it was a backyard job as well.
     
  5. Apr 13, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    When my glass tub was painted, the painter recommended a good epoxy primer.
    Have no idea exactly what he used.
     
  6. Apr 13, 2005
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    1,130
    lynn, just curious, would that epoxy primer only be necessary if all the paint was stripped off, or the 'glass was spankin' new?
     
  7. Apr 13, 2005
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    :?
    Mine already had a variety of paints on it.
     
  8. Apr 13, 2005
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    1,130
    So would one put primer over the paint? :?
     
  9. Apr 13, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    After sanding, sure.
     
  10. Apr 13, 2005
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    1,130
    Dang, I still don't get this. :mad:
     
  11. Apr 13, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    What part?

    Painting over old paint doesn't require stripping - as long as the old paint is still adhering to the metal well, you just want a fresh or consistent color over the top of it.

    So you sand to get a consistent finish. Primer after sanding to get one color on it, and the primer will help see where you might need more sanding or additional bodywork.

    You'll likely have bare spots from sanding as well, so the primer covers those.

    Once happy with the primer coat, finish sand and paint your final color.
     
  12. Apr 13, 2005
    67cj5

    67cj5 Member

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2004
    Messages:
    347
    I agree. I would just scuff up the factory gloss finish on the fiberglass and shoot it. i do alot of fiberglass ,carbon fiber, and kevlar work, on aircraft. As long as it has the finish on it then priming is not required, But still not a bad idea.For a trail rig I say scuff it up, Rattle can it, and let it eat!
     
  13. Apr 13, 2005
    Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

    The Backhills of...
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2003
    Messages:
    536
    Get a few fine scuff pads and scuff it up 'til the gelcoat isn't shiny anymore, then paint. Just a word about the Rustoleum metallic, it is NOT shiny when it dries. It's kind of a semi-gloss. You'll have to clearcoat it if you want a shiny finish.
     
  14. Apr 14, 2005
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    1,130
    Good info all. Mike I'm slowly beginning to get it (via hijack, lol). Why would sanding be required? To smooth out any rough spots is the only thing I can think of. But what if'n ya didn't care about that? Would a primer be necessary then (unless there were bare spots)? What's "finish"? Oh, and do you wet or dry sand? Then isn't there a step where ya have to remove the sanding residue? If so, with what?

    With all the reading on auto painting available, learning should be a no-brainer. But it's not for some reason. I have yet to find anything that's good in talking down to someone who doesn't know terms & techniques.
    Anyone got/recommend a video or something that "primes" one on the essentials of painting auto stuff that shows the diffo techniques & materials?
     
  15. Apr 14, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    Always sand.

    You're taking off any wax, etc that might be on top of the paint.

    You're also roughing up the shiny finish on the old paint to give it a "tooth" for the new paint to adhere to.

    I'm no expert...but here's my process for the stuff I'm painting:

    Wire wheel on grinder on any glimpses of rust.

    Wet sand with 220 to feather edge where I ground and to take the shine off other areas.

    Wipe it down with paint thinner (probably better alternatives, it's what I have on hand).

    Primer - usually in two thin coats.

    Dry sand with 1000 grit to smooth out the primer.

    Wipe down again with the paint thinner.

    Paint with semi-gloss, first coat is thin. Second coat I flow out.

    Since my end paint is semi gloss and these parts aren't sheet metal I don't have to be as fussy with the process, but you get the idea.
     
  16. Apr 14, 2005
    mnbubba

    mnbubba New Member

    Duluth, MN
    Joined:
    May 10, 2004
    Messages:
    47
    Thanks for all the information. I should be ready to paint next week. I have a run this weekend, then next week the cage is coming out to get stripped and repainted, then I am going to paint the tub, then rewire and get the lights all working again. I am thinking about the clearcoat for a finish coat for that one time each year that I clean it all up and make it shiny.
     
  17. Apr 14, 2005
    Hippo393

    Hippo393 Jeepless

    Charlotte, NC
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    1,130
    Thanks for the helpful step by step info. :)
     
New Posts