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T14 & D18 Install

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Duff, Mar 9, 2021.

  1. Duff

    Duff Member

    I'll be installing the 3 speed manual and transfer case back in my 70 CJ soon and was wondering if I should install as a unit or put the trans in 1st, then the t case? I'm a 1 man shop, but I do have an old school Walker trans jack, that raises and tilts all directions. Looking at it while it's apart, I think it may be tough to get the T case lined up when the trans is in. What do you all think?
     
  2. together.
     
  3. homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I usually do mine separated because the assembled units are not easy to keep balanced on a transmission jack. If I was going to do it assembled I would put together some sort of cradle to keep them from tipping.
     
  4. Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    It’s heavy together so install separate. Remove together. Gravity still isn’t your friend here. Any way you do it These will smash some fingers.
     
  5. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    I like to get the T14 to D18 gasket all nice and perfect and bolted together (and warn OD) is much easier on the bench and install as a unit. Guess it's really all personal preference...and maybe what tools you have. I do use the cheap HF transmission jack to make install of the combined unit easier.
     
  6. 45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I always remove and install my transmission/transfer case bolted together as an assembly. Instead of a transmission jack, I use my engine lift. I locate the boom so it is positioned above the transmission/transfer case. I use a couple of short straps around the assembly so it can be lowered or lifted while remaining level. Easy peasy.
     
    47v6 and Fireball like this.
  7. colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    A lot easier to stab the trans into the clutch if it doesn't have the tcase hanging on the back.
     
    Steve's 70-5 likes this.
  8. Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor


    I find it much easier to mount bell housing to trans/transfer case. and install as a unit
     
    45es likes this.
  9. garage gnome

    garage gnome ECJ5 welder

    Transmission jack? What's that? :confused: I used an excavator with a strap through the hole in the floor. :D
     
  10. Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    Agree
     
  11. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    I've done both. You can do a T-14 and Dana 20 (or Dana 18) with muscles in your driveway using the factory jack under the bell. Not recommended but do-able. BTDT.

    If you have a transmission jack, I'd suggest you put them together, mounted on the crossmember and lift it all. If not, separated.
     
  12. Duff

    Duff Member

    Seems like both ways are popular, I think I'll try to install them separately 1st, with OD already installed on the bench. I'll secure them to the jack with ratchet straps and see how that works. Thanks!
     
  13. colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    You can't do that. The planetary section of the OD attaches to the transmission mainshaft. As mentioned above, it can be a challenge to install in the vehicle.
     
  14. 47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I use an engine hoist with eye bolts screwed into my sm420 and the D18 as as assembly. I also use a floor jack to help position it. Its a lot heavier than the t14, but I have also used this technique for a t90/d18 assembly.
     
  15. Duff

    Duff Member

    I can see the OD being difficult to install in the vehicle, it wasn't the easiest thing to remove with the t case out. I like the idea of installing everything bolted together maybe even with the bell housing attached. I'll install as a complete unit, using my cherry picker on top and the trans jack underneath. The Novak master kit for the T case and billet cover pan should be here next week, I have receipts showing the T 14 was rebuilt sometime awhile back, so my rebuilder wants to check it out before ordering a kit. The flywheel is back from machine shop ( $90 to grind it) WHEW!, I painted the backside of the flywheel pontiac blue, so guessing I added at least 50 HP? I'm degreasing the bell and installing the pilot bushing and flywheel today. It'll probably be a couple of weeks before I get the T case and trans back, I'll report back as to how things went. I did have issues with the throw out bearing last night, a long style came out of the jeep and the new RAM kit that's going in had the short style. I compared the diaphragm pressure plates side by side, the old LUK is a flat finger and the new RAM is a bent finger, hence different bearings. I've run into this before working on old GM cars from the sixties. Thanks for the replies, this a is a GREAT site with a lot of knowledge being shared!
     
    Fireball likes this.
  16. Duff

    Duff Member

    I ended up going with new bolts from Mr Gasket #912, 7/16 thread 11/16 hex head, the old bolts were about 2 threads shorter and had a 5/8 hex and had no star washer, I left one old bolt in for comparison. Nothing is torqued yet, I'm just fitting it up to see if the longer bolts would cause any issues from sticking past the crank flange, they'll work fine.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. at least.
     
  18. Michael Wedin

    Michael Wedin Member

    I installed both bolted together back into my 64' CJ5 with a regular floor jack in the parking lot in college. Had to make sure the campus cops didn't see me , they didn't like mechanic work being done on campus. Did I mention it was a gravel parking lot. Keep both together and install!
     
  19. Duff

    Duff Member

    Nothing worse than a floor jack on gravel, I went thru a lot of skin doing that.
     
  20. Duff

    Duff Member

    Well, I put the the T 14 and dana 18 in last night, I ended up installing them separately without a jack, it all went smooth.