Xj Swing Pedals For A Cj2a

Hi guys.

I seriously need help with my install of XJ pedals in a 2A.
I have the XJ pedal assembly and have trimmed the top for fit.
Made up a 3/16" plate to weld to the engine compartment side of the firewall and a 1/8" plate that butts up against the inside firewall.
I have found my antique body does not like working under the dash at all and I nearly ended up in the E.R. So, I am asking for your help please.

I need to know where you folks drilled the XJ upper two mounting bracket holes through the firewall. I will be wanting to use the stock XJ P/B booster and M/C, BUT if you are using a different booster and M/C, please let me know what was used and the mounting location measurements. For input, I am running disc brakes on all 4 corners. Using the firewall/cowl “lip” might be an accurate location to measure from. Help if you can, I will be in your debt.

Thanks, Jim

 

I wish I could help, but here are too many variables to have a correct answer for your particular mounting location. I usually
get things right after about 3 times. Almost every custom modification will with a small amount of space to work with.

 

And I have to ditto what John said. It took me a few tries to get my swing pedals configured to work in my CJ.
Although this is a great modification, there is really no cookbook way through it.

 

Every installation is unique. This booster and pedal are from an auto xj. I can tell you the booster ( 10") is pushed up to right under the lip. Can't get an exact measurement but the top holes are about 3 3/4 below the lip. There is sufficient hood clearance. Driver / passenger you'll have to sort out ( the hood covers a fair amount of the fender you can push driver pretty well if you have a clutch slave. My other rig is clutch with Nissan stuff but it's 2000mi away right now) I'd make a booster cad template and lay it out for your application. Note this rig has a Buick V6 and aftermarket tall valve covers. If they were stock I wouldn't have to be so far driver.

 

Sorry for the LONG delay on getting back to you I simply got caught up with everything. I did use the XJ pedals along with the upgrade 8" dual diaphragm booster and a disc/disc M/C with a 1" bore for a 76" CJ5. The booster is as high as I can go without grinding out the lip which makes nonsense to me do do. I now have to figure out the pedal linkage. With no fluid in the M/C I cannot bottom out the M/C before the pedal hits the floor, even if the brake pedal is pulled up and hits the brake light switch bracket. I was hoping to get full travel of the M/C when "dry". Any ideas? I might be having a senior moment, LOL. The stiffener plate shown is a temporary one. I have another that fits tightly along the edges of the firewall. Here's a few pics of the install

The Clutch M/C is a wildwood M/C with a 3/4" bore. NOT SHOWN. The xj clutch pedal will also need a little adjustment too.

 

The floor in these old CJs have a significant slant compared to the '76 and later models. The pedals will have to be modified, like heat & bend, to get a suitable configuration. That's what I did anyway.

 

There are adjustable pushrods available to get the corrected length if you like your pedal height. I ended up cutting one down
from the local pick and pull. Welded a stop on my hangers to adjust the height. On the clutch I welded some bar stock to the
arm for for some offset to the drivers side This brought the clutch slave in to alignment. 1973-ish pedals but pretty much the
same issues to resolve. Clutch slave is '75 Landcruiser.

 

. I have LH/RH taps and am going to make up 2 turn buckles to adjust the clutch/brake rods easily without disconnecting stuff.

 

I drilled out the locations for the booster and brake/clutch M/C 's from a template given to me. Since the brake pedal was hitting the floor, I decided to move the swing pedal assembly up 3/4" of a inch. The pedal still hits the floor. Now I will most likely need to make up my brake lines and temporarily hook up a electric vacuum pump to get the grasp of how to proceed with the pedals. I will need to lower the clutch M/C pedal linkage rod down 3/4" but that is an easy mod.

dnb 71R2

Did you cut your pedals and shorten them up? Thanks.

 

I would not worry to much about the travel as your piston should not bottom when bled. I set the rod to just
touch the piston with it extend as if no brake was applied. There is some geometry and trial and error involved
as with all modifications and I had plenty to deal with. You will get it.