Swapping Engine Questions

Just wanted to confirm it is just a gasket/oring in there holding it together not some different way of attaching it I was missing before getting medieval. Thanks

 

Yeah the tractor style filter is just a paper gasket that should be in the box with the new ph8a? filter. The air pressure would be no higher than oil pressure and it will be even. There is soo much area on the canister lid it will seperate, just keep the bolt in almost snug or stuff will fly.

 

So engine is in and running. Had to pull it out again as I used the flywheel and clutch out of the engine and the flywheel was about 1/4 inch smaller in diameter then the original. Couple issues beyond normal sorting that have cropped up. 1st I'm hearing a bit of bearing noise. Not sure where it is coming from yet but hoping it goes away after getting some lubrication or it is just the water pump but once I used a big enough fh to pop the top off the oil filter I did find some fairly "gas rhin downed" oil in there. 2nd the clutch is very weak and doesn't grab until at the very end of the pedal. I'm assuming there is an adjustment for where the clutch bites and pedal height. I did use the smaller clutch as it was nearly new. At least I'm getting good at putting the engine in at this point now that it has been in and out 3 times. After some smoke for a while it seems like everything has settled in and it is happy not to smoke. Weirdly it is a bit tougher to turn over for the starter then the other motor. Not sure why even made sure the battery was charged up fully.

 

Still missing something. While it starts right up and idles nicely on when you press the accelerator pump you get some hesitation and it has very little power and wants to die when you try to drive her. Getting fuel as the bowl is nearly full even when it dies. I thought it may be a carb issue so picked up another solex and it is exactly the same thing. Plugs are pretty sooty. (PO claimed he couldn't get the thing to not run rich. Timing doesn't seem to be adjustable on the distributor it appears to be a non vac distributor out of a cj2 as it matched up with one on youtube. The other engine has the timing adjustment as part of the casting. Is the distributor just missing the plate I'm seeing on replacement distributors? If I do jiggle the distributor rotor I get a little play. Any thoughts on what you'd look at next? I'm drawling blanks.

Edit: I did find the timing adjustment clamp screw. It was all the way up top and hidden. Real pita to get at there. Timing doesn't change anything. Was set around 20 btdc went back to 5 and it does seem to idle best around 14btdc. Compression is a little low. 90, 90, 100, 95 esp for what was billed as a "freshly rebuilt" motor with a nos head but I don't see why that would cause such running issues. Zero smoke or nasty stuff coming out the tailpipe. Can't find my vac gauge so gonna pick another one up as it had lost its cover anyways.

 

Clutch adjustment is covered in the Service manual. Provided you have the correct linkage parts, that are not worn out, you should be able to adjust it to resolve that problem.

Some of the reproduction Solex carburetors are missing a one way valve in the accelerator pump circuit, having instead an open fitting that dumps fuel back into the bowl instead of down the hatch as it should. Produces the same symptoms you describe. I won't use a reproduction carburetor, though a real Solex is okay once it is put right, but when I get a Jeep with a Solex, whether real or reproduction, I always replace them with a properly rebuilt Carter YF or Carter WO depending on the engine.

Howard posted a link to a video on this defect with the Solex reproductions. If you find that and watch it you will know what I mean.

 

Thanks, clutch is long since sorted and holding nicely.

While I'm not doubting ya on the solex here is what doesn't make sense to me. The first one the previous owner put in the jeep ran perfectly well (although slightly rich) on the other engine for 500 miles or so until I got tired of the oil burning but has issues with this engine so with a cheap black friday amazon deal I took the chance as I can always return it on a second one. It does the exact same hesitation almost like it is trying to breath thru a stuffed up nose. Interestingly when you do get the thing running at higher rpm say around 2500rpm the timing seems to jump around a bit more then I would think is appropriate maybe a 15 degree flux. Engine has great vac reading right around 19-20 at an idle. I lack much of the linkage to go back to the yf that would be proper for the original engine and lack everything for the older carb that would have been proper for this 50s truck engine.

Not coming up with the video link on any searches I have tried.

I think i found it. http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/157322/ but still go back to why the other engine ran fine with the other solex and this engine didn't. From the video it seems only to be an issue on stepping on the accelerator. My problem contiunes beyond and runs poorly at a constant higher rpm so not sure that really fits my issues. Will see if I can get a video and figure out how to post it up of it.

 

So can't get the video up but exactly how much play should there be when you turn the distributor rotor from side to side? Got probably 20 degrees easily which leads me to believe that is causing my timing to jump around and the poor running. Did check my solexs and they both do have a ball check valve in that spot where the video says to check.

 

So I have it running quite well at the moment (not well enough to trust it for anything more than around the block) as pretty sure the distributor is the culprit with weak springs and maybe a wonky condenser. Figured I'd order up one of those snazzy plug and play electronic distos which arrived today. Found my tdc, and swapped em out and just as most have described you put 1 where 4 would go on a stock set and go from there. Crank away and crank and crank and crank. Nothing Put on of the new plugs I ordered as well on cylinder number 1, no spark, check the cap seat and wires all is as it should. Turn the lights off still no spark, put it on cylinder 2 and could see a very weak spark with the lights off in the garage. KW is sending another one but is there anything anyone can think of to check on it since I did get a weak spark on no 2? Running a 3ohm coil so no external ballast resistor. Just banging my head against the wall yet again. Finding Jeep parts to be so much lesser quality then my lovely "build in a shed" TVR bits and even my "built in a cave" Royal enfield bits.