Dauntless V6 Tune Up - Gapping Breaker Points

Greetings,

New to jeeps and new to the forum. Just picked up a '64 CJ-5 with what appears to be a rebuilt 1966 dauntless swapped in (KMH stamped on the passenger scallop). The jeep has been sitting for ~4-5 years and tends to die when accelerating off idle. Based on my research, it seems like this could have to do with the accelerator pump, but before tuning the carburetor, I am running through the tune up procedure outlined in the FSM.

I am taking a look at the distributor (delco style) and wanted to check the breaker points for the specified .016", but it is very hard to access the points when installed. There seems to be a couple different points assemblies. The one I have is pictured below. When installed, I'm finding it hard to get a feeler gauge in there with the condenser right on top of the points and the weight assembly in the way. I have seen other points assemblies where the condenser is farther away from the points, making them easy to access, clean, and measure.

Are there points assemblies that are not made to be checked or adjusted? I have already rotated the engine to try and gain more clearance from the weight assembly above, but haven't had any luck so far. Maybe I'm just not trying hard enough.

 

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The beautiful thing about a Delco distributor, and this style of points, is the dwell can be adjusted while running (assuming you have a dwell meter). That's what the window is for in the cap. The dwell should be 30 degrees.
You may need to get the older style points & condenser, that are separate, if you need to get the feeler gauge in there.

 

Yes. Old dwell meters are often found at yard sales etc. No need for the feeler if you have one.

Be sure to re-check the timing after setting the gap/dwell and also verify that the timing advance is working.

 

Thanks a lot for the info. I wasn't making the connection between dwell angle and points gap, thought they were two different parameters. Sounds like if the dwell angle is set correctly, the gap will also be correct. Thank you

 

I agree that a Dwell meter would be the easiest way to set the points, but there are "feeler" gages with narrow blades or even wire that would fit in there.

"Are there points assemblies that are not made to be checked or adjusted?" No, mechanical breaker points have to be adjusted.

"I have already rotated the engine to try and gain more clearance from the weight assembly above, but haven't had any luck so far. " I do not understand this statement. The points have to be set with the follower (plastic block) is on the high point of the distributor cam.

 

Yes.
Simply put:
The points are set at .016 on the top of the dist cam lobe. This means they aren't in contact with the dist cam on the flats. As the shaft rotates the points will begin to open till they hit the top of the cam lobe, then begin to close again. The dwell is the angle between the points completely closing and cracking open as measured on the cam lobe.
So if the points are adjusted with more gap, the angle will be smaller because they are opening sooner and closing later.
If the points are adjusted with less gap, the angle will be larger because they are opening later and closing sooner.


Adjusting the point gap with feeler gauges is perfectly fine and there is no real reason to be nit picky over a thousands or two as this won't effect performance.

 

Really, point gap is just a handy way to approximate dwell.

 

You have the GM unit-point, a one-piece points and condenser assembly. They were a great innovation, with their best feature being the ability to adjust dwell with the engine running.
Hook up a dwell meter, slide open the little “door” on the side of the distributor cap, and insert your Allen wrench to perfectly set the dwell.
-Donny

 

BE VERY CAREFUL adjusting the points with the engine running!!
You wind up with your hand really close to the spinning fan, it's easy to hurt yourself! BTDT
I start the engine, check dwell, turn off engine, make an adjustment, turn on engine, check dwell, repeat as necessary.
PITA? Yes, but it beats fingers in the fan blade.

 

Be wary.
Sometimes there is little space behind the fan for adjustments.With the engine running and the fan spinning and belts rotating there are a lot of moving pieces that can catch a shirt sleeve or watch and suck a hand into danger while you're distracted with adjustments.
Personally, I prefer to set them with a feeler gauge and be done. As stated, there is no performance difference if they are a thousands or two off.

 

Appreciate the discussion and tips from everybody. The diagrams are nice for visualization too.

 

Yep. The easiest points to set ever.

 

Posting while I'm typing.
I see how you are

 

Many of the old-timers on this forum don't like this solution, but another good way to adjust the points is to go electronic.

https://www.jegs.com/i/PerTronix/751/1165/10002/-1




If you're worried about reliability, keep your old points/condenser and a screw driver in the glovebox.

 

Pertronix is a great idea for any points equipped car, especially with the suspect quality of replacement points & condensers these days.