Tub Measurements 72-75

Does anyone know the frt drivers side corner to rear passenger side corner and frt passenger corner to rear drivers corner measurements on a 72-75 CJ5 tub? By front corners I mean the front most corner of the top of the firewall, where the windshield frame hinge mounts, but not including the hinge. Windshield would need to be folded down or removed to get this. By rear corner I mean the rear most top of the tub in the middle of the curved corner.

I am trying to repair a buddy's tub that got hit and want to make sure I square it up to the proper dimensions. Right now I am getting 90 3/4" frt drivers to rear pass and 91 1/4" frt pass to rear drivers. Would like to know which is closest to spec and work from there.

Really appreciate any help. Thanks

 

I'd help but mine is warped, old fiberglass. I know my junk ain't rite, but I like it. The guy's who know will answer soon, these guys are great. Ron

 

This would be the same as an early tub correct?

 

I believe it should be. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

This isn't my best but subtract 20 from a m170..

83" plus maybe 0.096"


The m170 door specs here are in-work but the overalls should be a start. I have a better file on the PC and on the 3d printer.
m170_tub_pass by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

 

Isn't the OP asking for the diagonal measurement so he can check the body for square?

 

pull the short side till the numbers match they were plus or minus a 1/2 inch from the factory...using that you're within spec now

 

Thanks to all the help thus far.

One thing I left out is that it appears this tub was whacked once before and repaired by somebody with very poor welding and body repair skills. That said, I'm not sure which of the two numbers I've pulled so far is the right one. I do agree though, it all may be a moot point if it's within 1/2". I am guessing the fine folks at AMC probably had fairly wide tolerances on the assembly line, at least for the CJs.

 

Double checked the blueprint for the m170 panel and it is 103.23 from the flange that contacts the fender to the surface of the skin. So a cj5 would be 83.23" in the x axis. Any tailgate hardware is not measured.

 

He is but I'm working off a cad file I made off two out of three blueprints for the m170 that does not have the, 20" filler, dash, or cowl.
I just have the ordinant dimensions from somewhere near the grill to the start and end of each panel.

My actual jeep was also grafted together by some kid in college and the passenger side is .5" short. I figure I gotta cut it back in half to fix mine and I'm not welding a .5" sliver if it's almost the same work to make a cj6... or something more...

 

Thank JW.

This information actually worked out perfect for me. With the info I was able to determine the hit side that I had straightened was dead on 83.25" (close enough to .23) but the other side (pass) which had been messed with by somebody sometime was 1/2" long. This explains my odd measurements. Funny it is the side that was not most recently hit...

 

Good Morning, I am in a disassembly mode of my 74 cj5. Yesterday I removed the windshield hinges and took the "x" measurements you requested. my Jeep is 91 1/8 one direction and 91 1/4 the other.
My tub is in good factory undamaged condition. Hope this helps.

 

The cj6 I’d been working on was 1/2” longer on the pass side between the 20” body extension and the rear corner. It’s really hard to make these things perfect when they were so off from the factory.

 

I can relate to the inconsistencies from jeep to jeep of the exact same year and model. When in high school, 1973, I had a after school and Saturday job at our local Jeep dealer. Part of my job duties were installing dealer installed aftermarket accessories, such as roll bars, rear seats, lock out hubs and new Whitco tops. The new top install required a pre install measurement check between the top of the windshield frame and the rear of the tub just above the back up lights. This measurement had to be exactly the same on both sides and the same on every jeep or fitting the new top without wrinkles and alignments of the doors an so on were almost impossible. Adjustments were made at the windshield hinge latches. Sometimes the measurements were fairly close and other times an inch difference. I had to added shims between the cowl seal and windshield frame sometimes.

 

Thanks Guys.

I'm giving myself an allowance of up to 1/2" but the perfectionist in me would like to see it under 1/4" we will see. If it were an 1/8" I would consider it about perfect.

Speaking of Jeep tolerances. A friend of mine's father worked in the automotive industry in the 70's and 80's, and he relates a story of being in the Toledo factory and watching the assembly line workers use 2x4s to bend the CJ door frames so that the tops would fit. It makes me wonder what goes on at today's assembly lines.