Grizzly Lockers

Now back to the discussion at hand. Since I haven't said this yet, I figure I should put it down.
Since I have a limited slip in the rear of the Jeep, my thought now is that I can keep the good LSD, rebuild it, and throw a lunchbox in the front. From what's been said, this is a great combo, and I'd rather have that than dual lunchboxes.

I was going to go with a lunchbox in the rear because I didn't want to replace the carrier and possibly screw up the alignment in the diff, and I didn't want to risk getting a damaged LSD and having it break on me because my untrained eye didn't notice a problem with it.

 

A good rebuilt PowerLok in the rear and a lunchbox locker in the front will get you through the Rubicon no problem.
That is the setup that I put in Steve's 71 for last years trip.

 

You could drive it to college. Maybe even pull a car dolly with a Honda civic along.

This picture is taken at a spring reunion in ohio....

My 1st Spring midwest reunion by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

Notice the bicycle inside tied to the roof.
I slept in that jeep to get there. I started in Missouri. That was a 4cyl, no overdrive, I could go 2hrs at 55mph then stop to stretch and fill the fuel tank.

Which brings up another topic. You need to think about dual fuel tanks or a dual 5gal gas can carrier.

 

That's a fine lookin' Jeep. I love the old steel hardtops on cj5s.

My CJ has dual tanks right now. It has good fuel lines and a solid electric pump, but I do need to figure the system out. I'll likely throw in a 5 gallon as well, eventually on a tire carrier but likely in the tub short-term.

I had noticed that my under-seat tank was low, so I drove to the gas station to fill it up. When I got there, the under-seat tank was completely full, and the rear tank was empty. So I put 5 gallons in the rear tank. Fast forward a couple of days, and the rear tank is empty again. I'm scared to open my gas cap, because I'm worried that the main tank is overfilled and will dump when I take off the cap. The way it works is that both tanks are wired to a T fitting that is hooked to a manual selector. After the gas goes through that fitting, it runs through an electric pump, then (presumably) to the mechanical pump then to the carb. I discovered a few days ago that the electric pump is controlled by a switch, and I've been driving it all this time with it off. The mystery continues, but I have a solid system to work off of if I can figure out what's going on and what needs to go on.

 

Your fuel lines should go from either tank to a petcock, then up to the fuel pump. If the opposite tanks are actually filling while driving, I would suspect the return line from the fuel pump is improperly plumbed and the petcock is crossrouting the fuel back.

I would also double check the fuel gauge wiring to insure it isn't backwards and verify it is working properly.

Don't worry about either of the gas caps. They are vented so if the tank overflows, then fuel will run out regardless of whether the cap is on or off.

I suspect the electric fuel pump is a redundant pump used for priming after the rig sits for a while. It would also be handy if the mechanical fuel pump were to go bad.

 

1st off, will any D44 Powr Lok rebuild kit fit my Jeep, or will I need to find one specifically for a 19-spline rear?
Disregard. I finally realized out how the clutch packs actually work.

2nd off, my electric pump decided to give out for some reason. After digging around under the Jeep on the side of the road for more time than I care to admit, I finally figured out that the electric pump was plugging up the system. It still turns on and sounds like it's running, but won't let any fuel through. After dumping a couple of gallons of gas on myself, I bypassed the electric pump and got it running and driving again. I'm only on the under-seat tank now, and it gives me a good excuse to redo the whole system in a way that I can understand.

 

Since the original fuel return line is still connected to the front tank, you have a couple options:

1 Cap off the fuel return and do not use.
2 Run off the front tank first, then when near empty, switch to the rear tank. Yes, as the rear tank level drops
then switch back to the front tank.
3 Connect a fuel return to the rear tank, and incorporate that into the change over valve.

Me. I would disconnect the return line.

 

I like having the return line, I believe it helps to prevent vapor lock.

 

2x on the return lines. What is needed is this, where both the feed and return lines are switched by the same valve. That also switches the fuel gauge to the tank in use.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SMP-FV5K

As for jerry cans, it will be a rare occurrence where you will ever need one with dual tanks. 25 gallons goes quite a ways even in low range.

 

They aren't cheap, but you can get manual valves for return lines too: https://www.amazon.com/GROCO-6-Port-Bronze-Fuel-Valve/dp/B00YMZ3YZM

 

Right now it has a manual selector, but it sits behind the center console and is just asking to get broken off by some sliding cargo. I'll have to see if there's a better place for a manual return line.

 

Both of my fuel injection setups are running the 6 port valve that Fireball posted above.
It's a little tough to get it mounted, but I have them attached to the floor riser and the valve is between the seats.
Because I had to cut the pinch seam out to clear the valve, I welded the seam from the inside once the job was complete.
This is the quickie job I did on Steve's71 last year in a mad dash to get it Rubicon ready.
Both of my jeeps are set up this way, it makes it super easy to switch tanks while driving down the road.
The valve is really stout, If any cargo slides forward and damages the valve...... you have bigger concerns than the valve.
The valve has an off position as well, which is a nice anti theft device as it is easily covered up.

 

I mounted mine in the same area but oriented fore-aft, but I don't have a center console and I don't plan to put one in. The Ox locker handle is already there anyway.

 

I like that mounting place. Is that weld bead where the stock tub has a dip?
I'd like to do possibly mount it like that and throw a smaller console in front of it.

 

My '71 has an added under seat tank (P.O. install) with manual valve tapped into the delivery line from the rear tank to carb. The valve is mounted in the low spot between fuel tank and toolbox right behind the trans. The under seat tank is used as a saddle tank. The fuel gauge has a switch that shows front or rear tank. When the fuel is drawn from the under seat tank the original return line dumps into the rear tank. I run off of the rear tank until it is between 1/4 and 1/2 full, then switch to the under seat tank and watch the rear tank level on the fuel gauge. When I am satisfied with the fuel level in the rear I switch to run off of the rear, switch the gauge and check the level of the under seat tank then switch it back. Check to make sure both valve and gauge read the rear tank (at least the same tank), repeat.

 

The weld is just an old patch where it had rusted through there. It rusted through because of a console I made for the jeep when I was in high school, ie. late 70's. Those beautiful oxy-acetylene beads are all mine.

I did sand about 1/2" off the brass valve handle so it would clear the floor, but it doesn't hurt anything.

 

When I did the frame off build of my 3B, the tank valve was mounted in the same position as Kyle's but was bolted to a bracket I made coming off the cross member so the valve handle was the only thing coming through the floor. I also had a rotary switch sandwiched between the handle and the valve stem to switch the gauge. The plated over hole in the floor is the only remaining artifact of that arrangement.

 

Back to diff covers now...

On Rock Auto, I've noticed that there are two D30 covers. They have different part numbers and different interchange numbers. Can anyone verify if they are different thicknesses and which one is thicker?

Here are the links:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6365712&cc=0&pt=2306&jsn=15
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8530212&cc=0&pt=2306&jsn=748

 

The first one has the high fill port for a high pinion 30. The second is the regular version for the low pinion. I suspect both of those are the same thickness.

 

Oh ok, Thanks.