Clutch Travel

I just installed my clutch pedal and did a “dry test” to look at the travel of the pedal. It is a new clutch, but the AA chain system and pretty much everything else is the same. It seems to me (someone who has absolutely no reference of what is right) that there is much less pedal travel than I would expect. The first picture is pushed all the way forward, the second all the way back. Am I missing something?

 

Did the clutch release? Put it in gear, push the clutch in and see if the output shaft on the transfer case will spin. Report back with results. Your picture shows the clutch lever in a vertical position, this isn’t how the lever will be positioned once the tub is installed. It will be about 45*

 

It takes surprisingly little movement to disengage the clutch.

 

I will try that tomorrow. I can do this even through the engine isn’t running, correct?

 

Here is what I have right now:
Tranny - 2nd gear
TC out/high
I cannot roll the jeep front or back. When I push the clutch shaft forward, I still can’t roll the jeep back or front. If I shift into neutral, I can roll the jeep front and back. That seems to me like the clutch isn’t releasing, correct?

 

It would be pretty hard to release it with one hand like that. Try both arms and really reef on it!, or use your foot as intended. Legs are a lot stronger than arms.

 

I took all of the slack out of the clutch and put a pipe over the clutch are and was finally able to push in the clutch but I still couldn’t get the jeep to roll when it was in second. I took some photos from inside the bell housing and could see the fingers on the clutch push in. Maybe not enough to actually release the clutch. I don’t have a seat/tub, so I’m not sure how I would use my foot.

The first picture is pushed in, second is released.

 

Disconnect the cable and take a picture with it fully back{released}. That does not look like you have much travel. Is the bearing touching
the diaphragm now?

 

I’m surprised with the AA chain linkage you wouldn’t have enough travel. Usually it’s to much travel causing an overly sensitive clutch. Here’s the topic/fix for that issue.

http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/140960/

 

Thanks. I read that thread and it started me thinking, which may have led to a duh moment.

The only things I changed are new Luk clutch, Luk throwout bearing (looked the same as original, pivot ball (measured the same as the original, and the clutch tube (looked the same as the original. I went out to take some pictures of the old clutch tube and am going to take some measurements after work.

This got me looking at my limitations in travel. When fully released, the arm of the clutch tube rests on the bracket for the sprocket.


That seemed kind of odd to me, but there was some damage to the clutch tube arm I removed, so maybe that is just the way it is.


What was really odd is that the travel on the other end is limited by my headers. This is when I had my duh moment. My clutch arm isn’t hitting the headers; the pipe I put over my clutch arm is hitting the headers.

Could it be that my clutch was just fine, and because I don’t have any experience with what it should feel like, I didn’t realize it takes a ton of force to disengage the clutch?

 

And maybe my second duh moment - I think the rubber boot for my clutch fork is backwards.

 

I disconnected the cable and removed the boot and it moved much more.


My two issues right now are figuring out the proper orientation of the clutch boot and figuring out where to attach the return spring. This is the photo from the parts book.


I think the boot actually should sit more flush like my first photo in this thread. If it sticks out like the above photo, if blocks the spring and cable attachment points.

I only found one photo of the clutch lever return spring and it was kind of a partial view, upside down, and backwards. Any chance someone reading this has a photo showing where to attach the spring?

 

It looks like the bearing and arm provide plenty of travel. Now it just needs to work mechanically.

 

This is how my '71 is set up:


It was missing the bracket for the front end of the spring so I made one:

 

The boot fits as shown in both the diagram and Fireball's post. Your installation in reversed. You don't want the boot riding on the ball pivot.

 

I flipped it around, but that blocks the return spring and clutch cable. @Fireball ‘s looks like there is a flap where the cable attaches. Is it time to get creative with a utility knife?

 

I believe there are different sizes of boots. Fireball's boot looks notched out.

 

I don't specifically remember since it was two years ago, but I'm pretty sure that's what I did.

 

The one on my ‘70 is installed just like fireball’s.

 

Some tricks just aren’t in the FSM! Thanks again.

Kaiser Willys has 2 different ones - one is for a 3 3/4' square opening. The other fits my opening.