Lost Oil Pressure

I was in the garage playing with the Jeep, adjusting carburetor and adding a little timing to the 225 V-6. It was idling at 650-700 RPM's smoothly @ 37-40 Lbs oil pressure.
I loosened the distributor to add a couple degrees of timing. I started it up and it was running smooth, as I started to adjust distributor I over adjusted and the motor started to sputter and die, it back fired through the carburetor and I heard/felt grinding coming from the distributor. I immediately shut the motor off, but prior noticed I had no oil pressure on the gauge. I double checked the distributor to make sure it was fully seated. I started the motor up and it fired off immediately. The distributor was still making grinding noise and i had no oil pressure, and I shut it off.
I know I need to pull distributor and check the cam gear for any signs of wear, but i needed to walk away for a moment to collect my thoughts.
Also I need to check the key-way at the end of the distributor as this is where it contacts the oil pump?
I guess my question is: is there anything else that drives the oil pump other then the key-way at the end of the distributor?

 

The gear on the distributor shaft is held tight in position by a roll pin.

 

Well…. Not good!

look at the corners of the shaft and the shaft for the oil pump.



This was just with magnet on screw driver in the distributor hole.

 

I still need to pull the oil filter and pan to see how much glitter I have.

 

I need to go back out and look at that roll pin

 

Roll pin intact and in place.

 

The teeth on the cam gear are fine, no wear no damage. I’m thinking the distributor came unseated just enough to allow the male/female key-ways to spin on one another causing all the metal shavings.

 

Sounds like at least a removal of the timing cover to examine the gears and oil pump shaft for free movement plus clean out any metal shavings. As you said probably need to pull the oil pan for a cleaning as well.
I had a 302 ford motor suddenly loose oil pressure once but was still running. I pulled the distributor to find the oil pump tang sheared off. oil pump had suddenly locked up for some reason. on disassembly of the oil pump I find a tiny piece of paper gasket lodged between the one of the gears and the pump housing where the clearance is very tight. Paper piece had came from somewhere in the motor, probably from the oil pickup tube where it was bolted to the block. Just enough to lock it.

 

Looks like the drive tang pulled up out of the slot and spun.
First thing to check is the distributor shaft vertical play. Excessive play can allow the shaft to uncouple from the oil pump.
Next, see how deep the tang goes into the slot. Some Prussian blue or zink oxide painted on the oil drive gear and install the distributor. If is sinks well below the damage, you're probably alright.
If not, you're probably going to have to replace both the pump gears and the distributor.

 

I tore the front timing chain cover off yesterday to see what damage if any. Before this I drained oil and found no metal shavings in the oil. I also cut open the oil filter and found nothing in there. Dropped the oil pan and found nothing in the bottom. When I pulled the timing chain cover the metal shavings were contained to above the oil pump. I pulled the oil pump apart to check for any wear or trash and found nothing. Everything looked good enough that I could of just cleaned and put back together but I’m not willing to chance loosening a motor over $100 in parts, so I ordered new gears and thrust plate from TA performance, should be here by end of week. I did find a crack in the top of the timing chain cover by where the distributor hold down screw attaches. I’ll get one of my buddies to rig this up and I’ll re drill and put in a heli coil. I contacted Davis Industries about the distributor and they had me ship it back to re condition the shaft, dropped it in the mail last night.

 

I'm a big fan of the Melling high volume oil pump.

 

This engine idles at 30-35lbs of oil pressure and runs down the high way 45-50lbs. Looking at the bottom end with the oil pan off everything looks new. I’m a big fan of the high volume Melling pumps also.

 

Well,
you can't beat that............
A sign of a good, tight engine.

 

Wise move on pulling the timing cover to throughly check the oil pump and the rest o& everything else. Yes, it looks like you loosened the distributor enough to allow it to raise enough to disengage the oil pump drive. When you get the distributor/shaft back, try-fit it to see what the engagement is. I have chucked a distributor housing in the lathe to cut 0.100” off the seat to get a near full engagement, with a paper gasket in place.
-Donny

 

I ended up using a different cover as the one that was on there ended up being cracked.

 

I got the motor mostly back together today. I primed the oil pump with my cordless drill, wife was watching gauges and said it was at 50lbs. Still need to fire it up and run it to see if alls good.

 

I got her fixed, idling at 40lbs and running down road at 55lbs.


I rebuilt the oil pump with the longer gears for the Buick 350 and spacer kit from T/A Performance.
https://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1505
also running the steel oil pump booster plate.
https://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1510
also used the shim kit to set the end clearance.
https://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1704

 

Start packing, Rubicon, or bust!

 

Now I just need to figure out what extra parts to pack