Well This Was Unexpected...another Powr Lok

They say assumption is the lowest form of knowledge. Well, I assumed the front was open, ordered a lunchbox locker, and was greeted by this when I popped the front cover off:

Not really sure what to do with my locker that's sitting on the shelf now. Time for some more research I s'pose.

In the meantime, any advice from yall? Rebuild the Powr Lok? Sell the Powr Lok, buy a carrier and run the lunchbox? Again, the end goal for this Jeep is the Rubicon, so whatever is best (without being too expensive) is what I will go with.

Edit: I did the torque wrench test and the front holds at 32 ftlbs.

 

This is why you need to know what you have.
You need to measure the resistance with a beam style torque wrench. If it works leave the jeep alone and get some trail time.

 

Are you sure the Power-Loc needs to be "rebuilt" ?

I personally would prefer that to a true locker in the front, but I don't plan on doing the Rubicon.

 

My suggestion is to run the Powr Lok for a while. If you like it, hit the Rubicon. If you don't think it is aggressive enough, get a used open carrier and drop in the locker.
Don't forget you have to set the backlash if you do a carrier swap.
Either way you have a good unit for sale once you make up your mind.

 

The Powr-Lok is one of the best limited slips, in my opinion. You might be surprised how well it works. I’d run that, especially since its already installed.
-Donny

 

Run the power lock.

 

If your wheeling includes lifting a tire, get rid of the powerlok.

 

I run Powr Loks in all my axles.
I only build highly versatile Jeeps for on and off-road uses, Not dedicated rock crawlers,
If you want a dedicated crawler then get a full time or a selectable traction device.
What model axle is this ?

 

Rich is right about what you get with a Powr-Lok when a wheel is off the ground, but I like them for the way I use a Jeep. My CJ5 has one in the rear and it will go places in 2wd where I would have to shift to 4wd on my CJ2As without one. If you do decide to part with the Powr-Lok I am sure plenty would be interested, including me.

 

The powerlok can help prolong your axle shaft and ujoint life. I’d suggest learning the ropes with that first.

I used to tell my wheeling buddies, “Learn how to walk before you can run, and learn how to run before you can crawl.”

If you build your rig to do everything for you, you’re not really learning how to drive. After you’re familiar with its (and your) capabilities and you’re ready for the next level, THEN it’s time for the locker.

 

2X Keep it and wheel it. You can always change it out later if you need more but they work better than a lot of people give the credit for, at least if they aren't worn out.

 

Stock 27 with 4.88s
I's like selectable lockers but I'm a young kid working on a burger budget, so I'll work with what I can afford for the time being.

 

Thanks for your opinions.
I'll keep the Powr Lok for this summer and get some wheeling in.

 

Don't forget the 27 isn't a 44. Show it some love or it will cost you more than you want to spend.
Shock load is when one tire goes up spinning, then comes down, grabbing traction. This is, IMHO, the number one breaker of diffs.
The Powr Lok will help with the shock load which will help save the front end.

 

Cheaper to open the axle up and see you had one before you blindly buy one

 

The downside of that is the price may go up---- That was very clearly a good find.

Putting any sort of traction device in a D25 or D27 is a bit on the dicey side. You dispense with one of the big weaknesses, the side gears but you still have the wimpy axle shafts. The short side usually is the first to go as it has less length to absorb those shocks jeepdaddy referenced and the square cut splines really enhance the probability of that occurring Those shocks can also occur if spinning a wheel on ice/snow/wet pavement and then finding the dry version.


The real solution is a D30 (or D44 but those are not bolt-in) and if I was going to the expense of purchasing a good locker, there is no way it would be going in a D25/D27.

 

I agree with many here.
Service the front axle and run it for now. Once you get some experience with the jeep, your desires are very likley to change.
Save you money for the long run goal of a D30 or narrowed D44.

 

The last time I checked no one makes a selectable for the D27. I went from open to power lok to lunchbox locker to Dana 30 with ARB over the years. Good advice from all. Run with what you have and go from there.
My first trip through the Rubicon in 1995 was Trac lock rear, open front and T-14. I made it OK but the SM 465 and Detroit rear were the best mods I ever made.

 

I’m a big fan of the PowrLok. I ran them front and rear for a long time in D44’s, D27’s and D30’s. Easy to work on and customize the friction with the clutch discs. The rebuild is a neat project for you someday once you’re ready to tear into a differential.

My first CJ5 went through the Rubicon many times with them front and rear. Strong, effective and reliable units. With low gears, PowrLoks, an active suspension and smart driving you will do quite well.

I’ve been running ARB air lockers F&R for a while now, which are of course an upgrade and amazing. And BTW, the ARB is also surprisingly simple and easy to take apart and work on. The engineering on these is robust, simple and strong. I love my air lockers.