Cj5 Front Wheel Bearings

Forgive the novice questions here as I need some education. Recently pulled off the front wheels of my 1964 CJ5. Outer bearings dropped out as expected and I know the rear ones are still there.

My question is - how do you evaluate bearings for viability or replacement? What to look at or look for in determining replacement. Here are the outers, but I don’t know how well the pics help.

And, as I dig further for the rest, How do you properly remove the bearing cups from the wheel?

If simply bearing replacement is the best way to go, who is your go to supplier of the Timkin bearing replacements and the 2 oil seals?

Appreciate all the experience out here!

 

Unfortunately, determining if a “decent” bearing is bad is quite subjective. Is the cage “loose” around the rollers? How loose is too loose? One sure-fire way to know if they are bad is to look at the cup/race. If it has any scoring or burn marks - I would replace them.

As for how to remove the cups - if you clean out all the grease from inside the hub, you’ll see that there’s an open spot in the casting that will allow you to get a punch on the race and drive it out easily.

Overall, my advice would be to replace them if you don’t know how old they are, and/or if you plan to drive it much. It’s just cheap insurance and one less thing to have to worry about.

Vendors for the bearings - I like Vintage Jeeper (Sal Walter) because he’s a great guy (I’m not affiliated). But there are plenty of options out there.

 

Cleaned and dry, bearing rollers and their races should have shiny and perfect surfaces, no defects at all, and should feel perfectly smooth when rotated by hand. Anything at all doubtful warrants new replacements.

 

Long brass punch and a hammer.

 

I typically clean the bearing and inspect the rollers and cup. I only replace if needed. Jeep bearings are more forgiving than trailer bearings because they typically are larger and loaded less per axle. But that just means when they do go, they go in glory. Broken cages and free rollers.

If they look new or maybe a little dull fine. Scrape your finger nail across in a few directions and feel for ridges, if you can feel anything it's done.
Then I typically put the bearings together dry and turn them by hand slowly looking for any weird noise or feel. Then I'll pack the bearings with lube and tighten the nut while spinning the bearing untill the drag starts to increase. Then back the nut off.

So to judge I need a picture of the race and the rollers. The inner race will be a reflection of the outer race and rollers so you don't need to inspect them aside from color and checking for missing sections on either edge of the cone.

 

If they look good they are good. Even if there is a few suspect pockmarks i will run them if I dont have any extras. Iv got alot of extra used bearings to chose from but it really depends on the application. I will mix and match bearings and races If I have to. Iv never had an issue doing that. The only thing that destroys bearings is water, dirt and over tightening them. Make sure your seals are good and run them snug they will last forever. I tighten them till I can just barely feel no more play and thats it.

 

I feel it is better and safer to snug them up securely first, to be sure everything is properly seated. Then back them off just enough that they run free with no drag.

 

There’s a very simple process for setting the bearings. Torque to 50 lbft, spin the hub, then back off by 1/6 of a turn (one flat on the nut). Always works very well for me.

 

That is the specification in the manuals I've always used.

 

That is also what I have always done and have yet to lose a wheel bearing in any pre-chrysler Jeep. I do replace any bearing that is even slightly suspect. If your time is worth anything, usually money well spent.

For replacements, Denny's Driveshaft or Summit are good sources for Timken. You probably need two Timken Set 45's for each side but check the inside bearing to make sure. Later hubs use a Set 47 on the inside.

 

Thanks for all the input. Decision has been made to replace them. I can see on the cups where they have sat for some time and left a shadow. The ones I already have out, not sure I can get them clean enough with my setup today. Been soaking in degrease, still some residue inside rollers. Not sure they have been touched since new. And, since I am trying to do what pieces of my Jeep resurrection I am doing “right”, while the front wheels are off, might just as well make it new.

cups and oil seal not off yet since I now need to add punch to tools, and I’ll be north for a week getting mom’s summer place opened up.

Appreciate the input and expertise out here!

 

To remove the old bearing races you can improvise a bit on the punch / drift. A long socket extension works in a pinch, just go easy with a light hammer. To install the new races you can use the old race to gently tap in with a hammer in a star pattern.

 

Posting an update on this thread, adding some final detail for any future searchers.

Bearing races punched out today. Got some brass punches, found the slot and with tapping, they came right out. Thanks colojeepguy, new brass punch worked!

Races are Timken LM 501310. Bearings are Timken LM 501349. That appears to be a Timken Set 45 as duffer mentioned above. Seals are Trostel DW 300-208-5.

Ordering all new to replace them.

While punching one of the races out, seemed to loosen a brake drum that dropped off the wheel. Surprise, but all looks ok.

Thanks again all!