Head gaskets

Alright, I'm about ready to put the new head gaskets on and I read in the shop manual I'm supposed to spray them with "Perfect Seal Aerosol Spray Sealer. Is this still current? The new gaskets are coated in teflon. If I need to spray them with a sealer, what is the modern day equivalent?

Also, two paragraphs down it says to lubricate the bolts with sealing compound. What should I use for that?

Thanks.

 

Victor-Reinz, IIRC. Bought the head job kit at NAPA. I don't recall seeing any instructions in the box.

 

Man. I gotta be more careful. Please accept my humble apologies.

 

I wish my NAPA did! You should see their parts delivery girl :twisted: . I order each part seperately just to keep her coming back all day . Just don't tell the boss lady .

 

Would the "sealing compound" that you're referring to be the equivalent of "loc-tite"? I'd be afraid of the permanence of it. In fact, I used bearing grease on the threads and deal with re-torquing as necessary.

 

A friend here at work said the same thing. I would think not. They're going to be tight enough as it is. I don't want to have too much trouble getting them out next time. I wonder if that sticky blue stuff I prep paper gaskets with would be good. I like your idea of using bearing grease.

BTW, I checked last night. No instructions with the gaskets. I went to Victor-Reinz web site this morning and couldn't find any DIY instructions. I've never replaced head gaskets before but it seems like the coating of teflon that came on them would be enough.

 

Do the head bolts go through water passages? That is the case on small block fords (my only point of reference), and the ones that do need a little gasket sealer on them to prevent them from leaking. Don't know if that is the case for your engine - just a data point.

Make sure all of your threads are in good shape - it makes a difference in torque-ing.

Bob

 

OMG good point. Take a small wire brush or wire weel to the threads to clean 'em up.

Worth--the Jeep Bible (King & Worthy) makes no mention of using any sealer for the head gaskets, and they would have if it were required. Just says to study the old ones that were on there; consider having head machined; and that retorquing after 500 miles isn't necessary with the newer type gaskets.
FYI.

ljspop--Regarding water passages: Not on the V6, but yes for the L- and F-head.

 

This forum rocks. I'll check for flatness to see if machining is necessary (hope not).

Interestingly, the shop manual doesn't mention it for the heads but for the intake manifold it says to keep track of the bolts and make sure they go back in the original holes. I was planning on doing the same with the head bolts. With absolutely no basis, I'm always suspicious of the grade-8 bolts I buy at the local home centers. I don't know why. What would you do?

 

I've re-used head bolts with no ill effects. The head bolts I've seen are not standard looking grade 8 fare. Most have bigger heads. Here is a link to a Fiat page of all things, but it does have some useful info. It says head bolts are usually grade 10...

http://www.fiatplus.com/tech1199.htm

Running a tap in the block and a die over the bolt is the best way I know to ensure your threads are all good.

Have fun!

 

X2, I also dip the bolts in motor oil to help gain an accurate torque.

 

Permatex makes aircraft thread sealer, every bolt on my motor has it on it.
Oiling bolts is not an accurate way of insuring the torque unless you lower the torque rating according to the manufactures specs. The lowered friction from oiling will actually stretch the bolt farther than its supposed to be.