Interior lining (i.e. Rhino)

This is a very interesting discussion, about something I've been wondering about! I appreciate all the info flying around here, and I can't wait for more. I saw a pic of a Jeep with some kind of sprayed-in liner, and I thought "what a great idea!", but I didn't think about how many kinds of that stuff there is, and I certainly didn't think about the dirt-holding aspect of the texture!!! This definitely needs more research and consideration.

Old Bill/Thad...thanks for the photos, is that the President Red? My '56 was originally red, but I don't know what shade, so I'm looking for ideas.

 

I cleaned up and painted the inside of my '5 and on the floor I used marine carpet (doesn't fade with uv light exposure, doesn't mildew, etc.) I used HD velco to keep in on the floor and if needed I can just pull it up and spray it off. The carpet also provides some insulation ANd less permanant than bedliner

 

I used Duplicolor in the rattlecan. I like it. Took about 6 cans to do the entire interior and firewall. Two heavy coats in high use areas (floorboards, bed, wheel wells). I like the finish. I have no idea how long it will last, but it cured very hard.

I was planning on brush-on Durabak for the exterior (primarily because it comes in red). Now I'm thinking that might not be such a good idea.

I had an '80 CJ5 for a short while that was rhinolined inside and out. It was not well prepped. The paint was about 2 years old and already rust was seeping through and spots starting to flake. Do not half step the prep.

I cannot think of a jeep I've owned that did not have a black interior, including in the tropics. I do not find it to have been hotter than otherwise. With the top off I don't think color will matter much. I focus on the scenery and the road, forgetting about the heat. Now a black seat is another matter. I gain Willys points by letting my wife buy sheepskin seat covers...

 

I used Duplicolor in the rattlecan. I like it. Took about 6 cans to do the entire interior and firewall. Two heavy coats in high use areas (floorboards, bed, wheel wells). I like the finish. I have no idea how long it will last, but it cured very hard.

I was planning on brush-on Durabak for the exterior (primarily because it comes in red). Now I'm thinking that might not be such a good idea.

I had an '80 CJ5 for a short while that was rhinolined inside and out. It was not well prepped. The paint was about 2 years old and already rust was seeping through and spots starting to flake. Do not half step the prep.

I cannot think of a jeep I've owned that did not have a black interior, including in the tropics. I do not find it to have been hotter than otherwise. With the top off I don't think color will matter much. I focus on the scenery and the road, forgetting about the heat. Now a black seat is another matter. I gain Willys points by letting my wife buy sheepskin seat covers...

 

When searching for a spray-on liner, forget the "brand names" and marketing BS. Find someone who sells a "ployurea" 2-part system and you have the right stuff. This material is heated up before application. You can change the size of the spray nozzle for different textures, and you can also choose from several colors. Not 100% UV resistant, but darn good in the FL sun. Examples are "hot spray" or "Linex." It cost more but its worth it. Ask the guys who bought the "econo liner" and are now chipping it off, personal experience included ! I saw a guy spray a donut (jelly inside) let it dry, and then beat it with a hammer. It would not break, tear, dent,.... nothing. Amazing stuff.

Mike
462A
472A

 

Hi guys just to throw another monkey wrench in I used a tintible bedliner from SEM I got it through Eastwood it goes on smooth you sray it through an undercoating gun its is tuff as nails .Also you can Put it on as thick or thin as you like and make it any color you like with automotive paint.
Also I vote for Durabach it is great stuff I put it on the under side of the 71 and that stuff is tuff too. JM2C

 

I have Line-X in my truck bed. It's about two years old & has faded. I would expect them all to fade no matter what the sales pitch says.

 

I like things that are reversable. I wonder how hard it is to get these materials off once they have been applied. I also like my jeep to look as original as possible. When it comes time to paint mine I think I will go with the original colors and paint scheme however I do see an advantage to adding a clear, high solids urethane top coat with plenty of UV inhibitors. The floors, front and back, will get rubber mats. Also, when the rust comes back, and it will here in New England, I'll see it before it gets out of control. Great discussion with lots info I didn't know before and made my decision on which way to go easier.
Thanks, as always.

 

Paint It I Have Had The Same Gpw For Over 42 Years And No Liner
Keep It Clean And Blow It Out Win You Home From The Hills

 

Been thinking about doing the same thing. Excellent thoughts from everyone. Whats the cost per can of the rattle can duplicolor? Sounds like thats the way to go if its not too expensive.:v6:

 

My friend has a Rhino franchise. He says the black is the only color that won't fade, it might loose the shininess, but not fade. Also they can apply it smooth, the nonskid is applied after the initial build, which is 1/4" thick. You must have no rust, I mean none, he won't guarantee anything old, only late model stuff (or a body he preps, which might require sand blasting/repair/paint and lot's of $'s). The neat thing about the Rhino that is smooth it washes up easy, use a pressure washer and clear water and your done. I probably will Rhino the underbody smooth, so I can keep the mud off and add a little sound proofing. Remember the stuff is 1/4" thick, it will interfere with any hole a bolt goes into and proper operation of floor drains, floor accesses to tranny etc... Prep is the word, They make a tape with a cord in it and when you are finished you pull the string and it makes a nice edge. Also any hole you don't want the stuff you make a cone out of tape and shove it in so Rhino can't get in. I will do all the prep, he's my friend and he'll let me work in his shop. I'm doing all floor accesses separately so I can remove them as designed. He's quoted me $350.00 to do it. I will just be painting the inside and making custom carpets from marine grade carpet for the floors. In some ways it might be more bother than it is worth, straight paint done well will act the same minus the dampening or chipping resistance. Rhino is very difficult to remove and almost impossible where there are lots of nooks and crannies, once it is on, it's forever, well almost, (it has to be ground off). I saw a ECJ5 done in Rhino inside and no thought was given to the floor accesses, I asked the owner how he was going to add/change brake fluid and he shrugged his shoulders and said he didn't think of that. Obviously not he time to consider it!
Joe