Disc brake conversion

I want to convert my '75 CJ5 (dana 30 front 3:73) from drum to disc and came across someone advertising the following for $100 obo and is local to me.

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Dana 30 Front, 3.07 gears, Complete with calipers and rotors
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Is this everything I would need to make the conversion? Seems that I heard someone say I could swap everything from the knuckles out.

Can I use my original master cylinder and proportioning valve?

Is there anything else that I am overlooking or not asking :?

Thanks in advance.

 

That should do it. Do a search here regarding the master cyclinder. I believe there is a residual valve that needs to be removed from it. Typically drum brakes require a 4lb residual valve and discs use a 2 lb. If you need to, you can plumb in one inline. They're available at Summit Racing. I'm using a Wilwood MC so I'm not sure how you remove the valve from yours. I'm sure it was discussed on the forum here though.

 

I found the following in a search which claims to remove a restrictor from the M/C.

I have included a diagram of the master cylinder but do not see the aforementioned restrictor. Can anyone tell me where this piece may reside in relation to the diagram?

 

It should be behind the flare fitting seat on the outlet port on the MC. It's a little spring and check valve.

 

It sounds like it is between the "tube seat" and the master cylinder itself and not necessarily within the piston shaft area of the MC.

If this is true, will the tube seat, per the diagram, come out easily after removing the brake line for the front or will I need special tools to get the seat out, then the check valve and spring? Also, I am assuming that a check valve for the rear also exists but I should leave this one in since the rear will remain drum style.

Sorry for all the lame questions but I just want to be sure I know where this part is and what kind of trouble I may run into.

 

I did the swap out on my 72. I swapped out everything knukles out. I also got a power booster,master and prop valve from a late 80's wrangler that gave me power as well worked out ok just watch the bleeding sequence and the position of the caliper bleeder screw. You may need to bleed them with the valve up before you mount them.

 

No special tools are needed to remove tube seat, just screw a self taping screw in the center and pull out with pliers. Yes you should rear check valve in place or you will have excessive pedal travel.

 

One more question. Will my old manual hubs fit the newer knuckles,etc.? I just found out that the axle for sale does not come with hubs.

 

Should fit. Mine did with no problems.

 

That depends on the rotor. I think that it qwas in'80 that Jeep started putting on the lesser grade hubs that use 5 bolts and not 6. Not really a problem though, 'cause you would just have to buy new rotors. I could be wrong on this though. Backup?

Karl