Flanged axle removal??

Well today I got a TON done on the flattie....rebuilt starter installed, new fuel pump, changed all the fluids in the diffs, tranny and t-case. New pinion seals in the front and rear. repacked the bearings in the front axle. Then the fun began....I installed a new master cylinder and started to bleed the brakes and they wouldnt bleed. the wheel cylinders where siezed up. I got 3 of the 4 drums off with little fight then came the drivers side rear. It just will not come off. Broke a slide hammer and a flange puller. Bolted a old brake drum on backwords and beat it with a really BFH until it bent with no movement at all. Has anybody ran into a drum that just wouldnt come off?? I tried heating around the axle on the drum with a torch and that didnt help either....any suggestions at all????? So now I'm sitting here drinking a cold trying to come up with some new ideas to try tommorow....

 

Jason, I know this may sound elementary, but have you attemped to back off the brake adjuster? the brake linings are probably whats holding it.

 

soak w/oil. would cut drum w/torch ONLY as a last resort.

 

i don't know if it applies to your axles, and i know you've already checked it, but does this drum still have the screws going into the hubs?? i've also had fun with a ridge being on the drum causing areally big problem with the removal. i'd back the adjuster all the way back, hit the drum with a hammer a couple times until the drum rotates smoothly, and then go at it again with the big stuff. after a day worth of that i'd cut it...

 

could also pry the drum off the shoes. after you get the drum started, spray LOTS of oil on the shoes.

 

Somewhat similar issue here; have a ’46 2A and a ‘?? 6 which both have front lefts that are frozen up (will not turn). My thoughts are that since they both sat for a LONG time before they followed me home that the shoes are rusted to the drums.
Now how do I go about getting those drums off?
At least on the 6 the back of the drum is shielded so I can’t get a drum puller on. Tried to use a borrowed hub puller (figured the drum and misc. other stuff should come with the hub) but the arms of the puller were cast such that the puller could not be assembled with the arms on the lugs (kept bumping into the hub).
Spent some time tapping the drum with a hammer and just got a lot of rust dust out but it didn’t seem to help the cause much.
FYI, I did manage to loosen the bolts sticking through the backing plate (for the ellipticals?) which also didn’t seem to do much for the cause.
So what should I try next?

Thanks
oldjeeps

 

I ended up having to use a puller like this one.

 

Yep and I have to say that is one of the best feelings when that d*@n thing pops off.

I just remebered part of the reason mine was so difficult was b/c the cotter key that slides in with the drum to align it with the axle had actually twisted jsut a little and was causing it to bind up.

 

yeah that thing a ma dooodle

 

Am I missing something here? Why are you trying to pull the whole axle to just get the drum off to service the brake cylinders?

 

Looks like the puller that I borrowed. Only problem is that on the fronts (where I am currently working) the hub gets in the way of the arms of the puller and does not allow them to be slipped onto the center circle of puller and even if they could I would probably run the risk of damaging the puller, lugs, or the hub once some pressure was applied.

Is there some other tool that would work to get the drums off (keeping in mind that the backing plate shields the lip of the drum)?

 

have you dissasembled the hub assembly?? If not you'll have to take it completley apart.

 

big nuts and outer bearing have been removed and the hub/drum assembly still does not want to budge , which is the problem.
I am convinced that the shoes are rusted to the drum and haven't had any luck freeing them (have tried tapping the drum with a hammer and only got lots of rust dust - perhaps I need to try a bigger hammer).

 

I might be missing something but only saw two bolts sticking through the backing plate - at roughly 3 and 9 o’clock - (and they have been loosened) - I think for the ellipticals? Should there be anything else on this as far as adjusters are concerned?