Problem with my Black Diamond Lift?

I installed the rear springs on my 3" black diamond lift tonight only to find the ubolts dont match the originals. They extend beyond the axletube a bit on either side, and they're larger in diameter as well (1/2"). Did I get shipped the wrong ubolts or did you other guys have to drill out the spring plates?

 

I had to drill out the spring plates, but the diameter was right for all but the front one next to the pumpkin - and that's just cause I have a D30 instead of a 27 I believe. I had a spring shop make me that one. Cost about $10.

 

Had to drill them out. But there's a catch. You can't just simply drill them out, you need to fudge the enlargement toward the outside. That's because (in theory) the inside dimension of the u-bolt is the same. If you simply enlarge the hole, half of the enlargement goes to the inside, thus shrinking the inside to inside dimension. On top of it, this fudging needs to go both side to side, as well as front to rear.

Clear as mud?

 

To be truthfully honest at $18 per axle for the proper sized U-bolts I would just get new ones that are the right size and keep these for another project or as a spare. When I rebuilt my Jeep last march or so I bought new ones for both the front and rear for less than $36 total and they were the right size, the lift kit company's use the one size fits all concept and force you to drill your spring plates out. I found it easier to leave the metal in the plates and buy the 7/16" bolts that went thru the holes originally. The U-bolts I used were Dorman (from local mom & pop) and they were cad plated grade 8 bolts, packaged 2 per box for $8.98, they were the right size and didn't have to be cut off. These were used on my old Rancho 2 ½" lift kit.
Fleetpride truck parts are a Dorman dealer, so if you want to go that route thats a good place to get them, autozone and the standard chains don't carry them, usually independants that use a jobber warehouse carry there fasteners.

 

just finished putting my 2 1/2" Pro Comp lift in and it came with 1/2" ubolts. I took them to the spring shop and the guy traded me for the 7/16" ubolts and it all fell together without a hitch. I would try that, Like they said you could redrill the holes but they need to be larger on the outboard side of the axle and outboard the springs or the ubolts don't want to sit striaght.

 

I went to NAPA got the right size bolts but they were too big in diameter, drilled out the spring plate and figured bigger is usually better.

 

Close Lynn,
Most Dana 44's are 2 3/4" tube except some heavy duty or full size front applications which are 3". Our Tapered axle housings are 2 1/2" diameter. Our off-set and centered flanged axles are 2 3/4". Get the right U-bolts. Will keep from crushing the axle housing when tightening them down by distributing the load more evenly. Nickmil..

 

Anyone else have problems with the axle-centering pin on the springs not fully seating in spring perch? The ubolts are fully torqued, so i guess i'll take it apart again and look for rust in the perch and apply a lot of grease to coax it along...

 

I bet there is rust inside the centering pin hole in the perch. Got a dremel tool? It should make short work of it.

Just a side note - there's nothing I hate worse than trying to squeeze u-bolts enough to get them to fit through a spring plate. You end up with funny looking lines on your hands from the threads! The best method I used was a squeeze-clamp. I always wondered why they didn't fit right. Guess now I know why...

 

Time to revive the thread. For all you black diamonders out there, did your kit come with any axle shims to correct pinion angle? Mine did not and according to McRuff my jeep should also have factory spacers btw the transfer case skidplate and frame, which it doesn't. The result of this is a jeep that won't budge when sitting on level ground - driveshaft is binding at transfercase. Anyone else run into this with the BD kit?

 

Yes. BD didn't bother to mention that I would need them. I should have known, but it just slipped my mind. I called them up and told them what I had (3.5" lift for a '74 CJ5). They guy was like "Oh yeah man, you're going to need a bunch of shim - like 8*." He seemed so sure of himself that it left me thinking - well, why don't they atleast mention this when you're ordering the kit...

Re: the shims under the crossmemeber - yeah, those will help a lot.

What engine/trans are you running? On that '74, it had a 258 and a T18. I ended up having to install an 8* shim along with a CV rear driveshaft to get rid of the vibes.

 

Ditto on "why don't they mention..."
I've got the F head and T90 trans. Where'd you get the cv driveshaft and how much did that set you back? I'm looking for driveability around the farm with minimum investment for now, so these hidden costs are a bit frustrating - seems you know where I'm coming from

 

Problem(s) Resolved!
1. Cut and re-weld spring perches to correct pinion angle
2. Shortened driveshaft (appeared someoned else lengthened it to compensate for aftermarket funky spring pack
3. Lowered transfercase by width of one, grade 8, 3/8" nut.
The jeep now rolls freely in the garage. I'll post pics soon.

 

Good deal Ben.
Thinking I'd order a drop kit from Rancho, but if the Benmade spacer works I'll go that route with shims.