Valve question

I'm fairly new to this but, my passenger side on my CJ5 sounded like it had a burnt valve so I decided to overhaul the top end of the engine. At any rate here's what the two heads look like. they are off of a 225 V6. Can anyone tell me what there supposed to look like and what might be causing the differences. The head on the left was from my driver side and sounded great when it ran. The head on the right was from my passanger side and it randomly sputtered and blew out alot of cold air. Any information on it would be great,

View attachment 6212

Thanks,
Jonathan

 

Don't know too much about valves but it sure looks like one side has been running leaner than the other. Carb out of adjustment, clogged, or miss matched jets?

 

Exactly the ones that are white looking are on the verge of burning from running to lean and the others are running way to rich.

 

Thanks guys,

I just got the CJ about a month ago and it wasn't running at all. One of the things I've done to it is to put a remanufactured G2 carb on it because the old G2 was leaking fuel out of the butterfly stem on the right side. Perhaps the PO was tring to compensate for the missing fuel on the driver side. Thanks for the help.

 

A good carb shop can bore and re-bush the throttle shaft bores and install a new shaft. Charge for that here in Havasu is $94, including the carb rebuild. As long as there is no corrosion in the carb, it will be as good as new.

 

Could your distributor timing have been 180* out? That would explain the sputtering and cold air out of one side that you describe. The problem may not be your carb, but your ignition instead.

 

I replaced the carb with a remanufactured one about a month ago as one of the things I did to get it running, so I'm not too worried about a bad carb.

Oddly enough, the timing was 180 out. However, when the roter and the wires were properly in place, all I got was backfiring out of both sides when it turned over, no matter how much I adjusted the timing, which is rather a game all in itself because someone along the line removed the timing plate and didn't put it back. However with the wires turned around and alot of playing with it I got it running on 4 or 5 of the 6 cylinders.

Another question, since I have the top of the engine apart, is there anyway I can tell if the crankshaft and the distributer are properly aligned or do I finish tearing down the engine?

One last question, how can I tell if the valves are valves for the old leaded gasoline or if they're for unleaded?

 

Turn the engine over by hand untill the intake valve on the #1 cylinder closes and the #1 piston is at top dead center. Set your distributor so the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire on the cap. This will get you close. You can also make a mark on your timing cover and crank pulley to give you a reference to go by once the engine is back together.

I believe it is the valve seats in the heads not the valves themselves that determine if it's for leaded or unleaded. Unleaded valve seats are hardened.

Clear as mud?