high pinoins 44

I going to put a high pinion 44 in my cj5 I have the stock 44 I put disk brake and hub on but I want the seals on the inside.

Jerry m

 

Did the 74 have a driver side drop front axle?? Are you swapping in a complete front axle??

 

I going to put it in the back my drive line angle works but will be better with the high pinion and to get the seals on the inside. I am hveing problem with the weal on the outside.

Jerry

 

How are you going to keep oil on the wheel bearings if you run inner seals? What problems are you having with your wheel?

 

I am running the spindle and hub off a dana 30 with the disk brakes I don't need oil on the brearings. the axles will not move as much on the inside as it dose on the outside.
I had better picture can't find now.

jerry

 

Also remember in the back you'll be driving on the coast side of the ring gear (not near as strong).

 

I wouldn't use the coast side as the primary drive side. Reverse cut R+P's should be available to remedy this. As for your seal question...Two fixes come to mind. Machine a seal surface inside the pumpkin and on the axle, or replace the hub grease seal with an oil seal. This would allow the axle oil to flow to the bearings ala semi floating 3/4 ton hubs.

 

I had a set that I thought about using in the rear and spoke to randys ring & pinion about it. They told me that it was designed to be used as a front axle and when you spin it around and keep it as a HP you'll be running on the coast side. If your going to all the trouble of re-tubing a HP44 center section to use as a rear axle (assuming your not wanting a steering axle in the rear) you may as well use something that was orginally designed for this, like a Hi9 center section. And for some reason I remember the bronco I used to have with this front axle did have seals already in the pumpkin...

 

A reverse cut gear run in a rear aplication will run on the coast side of the gear. This was what Neptco19 was getting at.With his full float set up the gear lube will leak out of the hub (if it's not already).

Jerry, do you have the factory inner axle seal installed(right next to the factory axle bearing) and if so how does it fit on your full float shaft? With a little time at a decent parts store (one that doesn't ask if you have A/C when you need an axle seal) you may be able to match a seal with the shaft and inner bore. I think this would take care of your problem(unless of course you have already tried this). If you are dead set on a reverse cut you may want to consider finding a Dana 60 or 50 from a ford. It's going to be the same amount of work no mater which way you look at it. Only extra cost would be in new shafts. Size is all going to depend on how you use your rig. Hope this helps.

Anders

 

What needs to happen is new tubes put in that are thick enough wall to allow a seal area to be machined into the tube. This is do-able but will require new tubes. The existing tubes have a seam in them and must be machined so a seal will press in properly. Problem is the rear axle tube he has does not have the wall thickness this requires.
A high pinion will be running on the coast side of the gears and is weaker than a standard 44 when run in a rear application. Yes, they will wear out quicker than a standard 44 and the pinion bearings will wear quicker. However, there are tons of them running around with few problems. I've built dozens of them with few problems. You HAVE to run the high pinion cover or you will not get enough oil to the pinion bearings and you have to be careful how much you tilt the pinion angle up or the pinion bearings will starve for oil. Also be aware there are two high pinion 44's. One with 2 3/4" tubes and one with 3" tubes. Your current rear end uses 2 3/4" tubes so that's the pumpkin you will need unless you retube it, cut off your axle housing ends, align them to the new tubes, and weld them on. I know people who have done this lots of times so if you want info I can put you in contact with them. Nickmil.

 

So how do they hold up? I mean what seems to be there tire limit/torque limits? I ask because I too would like to go highpinion and while the true Hi9 is nice its a little pricey($2000) and have you priced used high pinion front 60s($800+)? High pinion 44s seem to be much more common and cheaper.

Kevo

 

They seem to hold up fine to 33" tires, V-8 power, and a heavy foot if in a light vehicle like a flat fender or Early CJ. The reverse cut gears are about 10-15% weaker when run on the coast side of the gear. I know some people who are running up to 35" tires but I'd definitely not go any larger. Personally I don't recommend larger than 33"s with a reverse cut 44. I tend to err on the side of caution though. A friend of mine has one I helped him put together in a 3B with a SBC 400, wide ratio T-19, 2.46-1 20 transfer, and 4.56 gears. In about 12-14 years he's worn out one gear set. That is very hard wheeling to Moab, Rubicon, In the mud, trails, sand, and doing smoke shows on the street with 33x12.50x 15 Swamper radials. He also likes to pull the left front tire off the ground when taking off, well, because he can! He also watches his oil level very carefully and that is using a good quality gear set. If you're running V-6 power then you would most likely get more life out of the gears than he did with his first set. Anything can be broken though. Remember, power, driving style, etc. can make all the difference. Nickmil.

 

My son and I put one in his cj7 running a 350 and 35's we will see how it lasts. he not eazy on it he has 5.38 gears. time will tell.

Jerry

 

I had a high pinion in the rear of my 83 CJ5. It held up to a healthy 289 V8 4.88 gears and 35" tires. I did have to keep checking the pinion nut, as it would keep backing off.