water pump with electric motor ideas

ok, ive seen electric water pumps and electric fans, but in the PAW i found an electric motor that attaches to the fan/water pump and turns like 2500 rpm constant. it will eliminate the power drain from the engine and allow cooling of the engine with the engine off. so lets say i am in the desert and it does over heat, i can shut it down, turn the key on and it will cycle the water system and allow cool down at a quicker rate.
the fan i have is a low rpm flex fan. at idle, it drew alot of air through the radiator system so i am confident that it will cool at 2500rpm when 4x4in' in low.

anyone see a down fall in this besides the electric motor going bad (i mean everything will go bad sooner or later)?
its only $120 or so for the kit so..
lets see, 15 hp for the water pump, 25 hp from the fan..that quite a recovery.
pros? cons?

 

how many amps does the motor draw?

 

PAW is at home, but i dont think it was much. it will have its own ckt/fuse etc and i might put a larger alt on it. but i dont think it was alot.

 

If it's clearing 15+ hp from your engine, it must draw a significant amount

 

If you google EWP water pump, they show a universal one, and they say max amp is 7.5, and can be operated by switch or electronically according to temp settings........ they show big HP gains??? im sure it varies greatly by vehicle, weight etc........

 

at low rpm you dont need much power to turn fan/water pump, but at higher rpm, you are pushing more water and air.
correction, its 1500 rpm. but thats still sufficient.
i called PAW abd they say they wouldnt use it as a DD. i am on hold with mr gasket now.

 

hmm interesting keep us posted....

 

I was under the impression that flex fans only pull when engine is accelerating or under load; not when held at a steady, constant RPM.
correct me if I am wrong, maybe yours is different than what I remember.
with that in mind, save your money and buy a 6-7 blade rigid, fixed fan blade; air all the time at any RPM; cheap at Summit, $20-$25
my 0.2 worth

 

jegs advertisement for it says for drag race application only. i think i might stay with stock at this point. was on hold with mr gasket for 20 minutes.
was a good thought, but i think i will hold off. can always add it later.

 

run that thing at 5000 rpm and see how much hp it robs. you dont need it when cruising down the hyway, so why pay the 25 hp to turn it 4000rpm when i can just throw it on an electric and turn it 1500 on a few amps and save that hp for passing?
i have a nice fan. it pulls alot at lower rpm (i have stood in front of the jeep and felt the draw at idle) but at higher rpm, it pulls alot more (un-needed). when driving, the air from 60 mph cools more than the fan does. i am just trying to eliminate higher rpm engine drag from water pump and fan is all. if 1500 rpm is more than enough to cool, then i will leave it there.
after reading that last ad, i think its not intended for DD use though.

 

{shrug}

guess I misinterpreted the question then

 

All that stuff takes energy from somewhere to operate. The hp required by the alternator will increase dramatically if you are obtaining equal fan and waterpump output. Most likely close to what you are saving. ENERGY isn't free wherever it is coming from.

JB

 

this thing drives both the water pump AND fan. i mean why did they switch to electric fans in new cars? one reason is it saves power. when you are driving, they shut off. you would be suprised...

 

so lets say a V6 puts out 160HP
you're just trying to keep 160HP, you're not going to gain any above that
if you're rock crawlin, 5000rpm doesn't matter, right ?

just trying to understand your train of thought on this
the only advantage, per you, would be the ability to shut the engine off, turn the key back to on, and cool down the engine down quicker ?

 

well, 80% of my driving is on road. so on the hyway, i will have extra power for passing and also the ability to shut it down for quicker cooling.
i will have less drag on the motor for driving which might give me more than 160 hp. could be 180 without the fan or 160 with. so switch to electric, keep steady cooling and have a few extra ponies for hills or passing as needed.
its no big deal, i am not going to run it.
i guess my 1/4 mile racer is coming out.

 

Never gonna gain more than the engine was rated. The Dauntles was rated at gross hp wich means it wasn't running a water pump, alternator or anything else with the engine. Thats why they changed to net rating in 1972, to be more accurate.

 

see, this is why i come here and post. even though i am taking fire, i get the facts. and thats what its all about.

thanx guys.