Brakes

I am rebuilding a 72 cj5 304 v8 with a dana 44 rear and a dana 30 front,3:73 gears.Can I use a proportioning valve,If not what can I use to run the brake lines.Also I can not remove the drums from the front and rear any ideas on how to remove them. I dont care if I mess up the drum,because I am going to replace them. I pretty sure they are frozen on,because the jeep sat a long time before I bought it, Also I am a little confused on the springs.How many should be up front I have 12 on back and 6 on front is this correct.I am going to by new springs, but not sure on what I need.I do not want a lift

 

Hit 'em hard with a hammer on the flat area in between the studs, to break the drums free of the hubs.

Pete

 

what Pete said
with liberal amounts of penetrating oil around the studs and center holes

 

I just had the pleasure of reaquainting myself with 4 wheel drum brakes again just recently. You want to back of the shoes as much as possible through the access hole in the backing plate. You stick flat screwdriver in there and push on the cam adjsuter and then take another flat screwdriver and push DOWN on the star wheel to back them off. Sounds trickey but once you look at it you will understand. If all else fails you can wack them with a 5 lb sledge and they will come off.

Helpful hint: If you need parts like the the self adjusters, star adjuster, adjuster cables and pretty much anything that does not come in the small parts kit. Go to the Junkyard and pull the drums off of Ford trucks. Even the early 90's Explorers yield the same break parts that fit intermediates. Oh and also lube the hell out of the star adjuster with silver Anti-Sieze compund. Do not forget to do this!!!!! Otherwise you will be back in there in 2 months wondering why your left front brake is locking up and pulling you into oncoming traffic everytime you brake.
R)

 

Comment - I'm sure you can find the adjuster cables new if your parts store is helpfull. These cables are a typical maintenance item, and the 11" Bendix brakes were used on a lot of cars. IIRC in the EIS kits, the cable and adjuster was included in the small parts kit.

My reccomendation is to use all new parts, except for the backing plates, e-brake lever and e-brake bar, if you can - they are out there if you search.

Lubing the adjuster is good davice - but I have always used white lithium grease. Anti-sieze should work, but it has extra stuff in it (flakes of mica?) that may or may not be good for this app. Put a little dab of grease on all the metal-to-metal surfaces - just a dab, not much. You don't want the grease to get on the shoes. The backing plate post and bearings, the adjuster threads and ends, the e-brake lever ends, etc.

 

Well I had a cable snap the other weekend and yes every store I called could GET the cable but noone stocked it. I had the CAP guys open a small parts kit and it was not included. They said it was included in a self adjuster rebuild kit?? But it was sunny and I wanted to drive around so to the JY I headed.