Freeing an engine

I've spent half an hour trying to search for the thread where we discussed various products to pour in an engine to unsieze it. Sorry to ask again, but this one is stuck pretty darn good. Maybe because it only has 12,000 mi. on it since rebuild?

We're going to try a socket and pry bar on front, but have to determine what size socket we'll need. Bigger than 1-1/2" I'd say. Anyone know off hand?

Before we do that, I'd like to try one more magic product. The problem seems to be that what we're putting in it isn't making it past the head.

I promise to write these things down this time!

Will be out of town for next several days.

Thanks for your help!

 

F-head
Starter's still on the engine. Hadn't thought of that. Everything else is rusted fast so that could be a problem. Will try removing it.

We've been pouring Peter's magic mixture (diesel fuel, Marvel Mystery Oil, oil, and right this second I can't remember what else, but that's the main part of it.) in it for over a week now. I squirt it in each cylinder every day. We've tried rocking it in gear three different times now.

PB Blaster is the stuff several people mentioned that I wanted to try. I think I remember someone saying that you could get that at Napa. I'll try there before they close and we head out.

Peter did squirt penetrating oil in each cylinder before he parked it, but then he wasn't expecting to be forced to wait 15 years to come back to it.

I have faith.

The pedals are still not releasing either. We squirted the common bar between them with penetrating oil, but still nothing.

Thanks!

 

Where can you buy Kroil? I can shift it in and out of gear and through the gear pattern o.k., so doesn't that mean the clutch isn't stuck?

The transfer case was really stiff, but we have loosened it up well (by accident). It's a single lever (which I've never exerienced) and we now finally have it all the way to the firewall, which we believe to be neutral as the front drive shaft doesn't turn in that position. We towed it a few miles in the position as far as I could get it and realized that it wasn't neutral. Transmission, transfer and clutch were all rebuilt/new also.

 

I had a post going on this i cant remeber what i called it thoe it was in the off topic. It had some good stuff on it.

 

That's what I remember too, but couldn't find it. I found two other threads from that time, but couldn't find the right one. Either way, now I know the name of the stuff I was trying to remember.

 

Good to hear but i will look for the mine and if i find it i will let you know

 

The only place we get Kroil is to order it from Aero-Kroil Co. they always send a order form with the order. You have to be careful when a enging has been seized for a while, it is easy to break a ring, the next suggestion is going to cost a head gasket. Pull the head, clean the cylinders out and put a penetrating oil around the pistons, MOST PENETRATING OIL IS BASED OFF KEROSENE. I use either kroil or 75% kerosene and 25% Marvel Mystery oil . then take a block of wood and put on the piston and tap firmly with a hammer, not real hard you are only trying to jar the rings loose not break them or crush the bearings. If you see movement then have someone try to turn the crank while you tap on the pistons rotate it by hand a couple of turns then try the starter. If it was mine I would pull the pistons and clean the rust out of the ring grooves so it wont score the walls up when it breaks loose while running. 12,000 miles almost new why take a chance, sometimes these things take time dont loose patients with it and have fun. The first time it fires up will be your reward.

 

Hot water in the block/cooling system will help while you are rapping that block of wood.

Pete

 

We have a head gasket in stock. I'll bounce that off Peter and see what he thinks. Sounds like sound advice to me. We're pulling everything off the engine anyhow, carb, fuel pump, alternator, fuel lines to replace so it would be easy.

Thanks for the advice!

 

Walmart sells PB

 

Good luck. I just revived my jeep that had been parked since 1976. I got the engine loose with Marvelous Mystery Oil, but time was not my friend. Stuck exhaust valves, seized rings and a piston broken around the edge down to the heat groove. However, after new valves & valve stems, rings and 2 new pistons all is well.

 

You will have to get the pedals free from the common shaft they share. It is not anything fancy, and must be kept greased or it will lock up on you. You can run almost any manual trans through the gears whith the clutch engaged and not running. If the pedals aren't releasing, remove the whole assembly and get it somewhere that you have room to work.

My brake pedal froze on the common bar, and prevented the clutch from fully disengaging. It took alot of penatrating oil and alot of whacking. But I got it free. That was just from sitting for a year or two, so 15 years might be a tuff one.

 

A company by the name of Kano Laboratories in Nashville, TN makes it. I think they have an internet site.

 

You're going to laugh but I have used PB blaster and Marvel mystery oil but when all else fails I go get the Coca-Cola can and it has never failed yet, my father swore buy it.

 

Huh. Coke contains phosphoric acid, but probably way too weak to have an effect. More likely it's the carbonic acid (fron dissolved CO2) that's effective. In that case, soda water would work just as well, and might be better because of no sugar.

You could also try oxalic acid (radiator cleaner, limeaway?) in very weak concentration to dissolve the rust.

hth 8) Tim

 

Marvel Mystery Oil has always worked well for my uncle. The man was a mechanical genius. He had his own forge and could fix anything. He said he bet a friend he could crank a tractor that had been sitting for years. Everyday for a couple of weeks he would pull the spark plugs pour in some Marvel Mystery. he said at first it just sat there, but after a couple of weeks it soaked in. Then the bar with the socket and rocked the engine back and forth. Later he cranked it and the rust flew out the exhaust pipe. I'v used it for stuck valves and such and it worked well.

Keep at it.